Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hi all:

I have been working through many configurations and drawing many different plans on the rack I am putting together.

Dear all:

I was wondering which way I should go for heating. I currently have 11” wide flexwatt and I am not sure if I want to go with back side heating or go with undertank heating.

I have never done a rack and I have never done backside heating. I am a little worried that it would not be enough heat for the tubs. Also, how should I do it? Do I just close off the back end of the rack with sheet of wood (to help keep the heat in) and mount the 11” wide flexwatts straight down the back side?

Is this going to be adequate heat? I know that JoshJungle mentioned that backside heating gives a nice gradient (thermo). But does it keep the tubs warm enough, esp. for the winter?

JUst looking for input before I make the final drawings and configurations. Probably am going to buy wood this weekend.
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Longtang. I like snakes and rats.

This is a question I have debated in the past - mostly because rack makers charge less for "back heating" than "belly heating". I think belly heating is better. The heat is concentrated directly on the tub, which is directly concentrated on the snake. As the heat rises, it has a tendancy to stay in the tub.

Back heat usually has a 1"-2" gap between the tape and the tub. This usually means you have to heat up the tape to a higher temp to heat the tub itself (not proven by me). And it does not provide a concentrated source of heat. In other words, belly heat provides a temp gradient as well as a hot spot.

If you go belly heat, do not use an 11" tape - unless you have a really large cage.
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Jay A. Martin

I've used both. My adult ball rack that I currently use has a horizontal design (3 tubs per row, 4 rows high)has flexwatt under the tubs. I this spring built a new vertical neaonate rack that utilizes flexwatt running vertically down the back (to answer your question, yes just enclose the back and run the heat tape straight down). I'm very happy with the neonate rack and recently have built a new vertical adult rack based on the same principle. It is very similar to the rack that Markus Jayne uses on their adult BPs (they have plans on their site). At least on the neonate rack, I have had absolutely no problems keeping a good gradient. It keeps the back of the tubs at a constant 87 to 88 degrees, and the front of the tubs are usually around 80 or so. I am pretty confident the new rack will work as well. It should be set up and running this weekend, so I'll know more then. Good luck!

Joe Pociask Pythons

I just recently built to racks very similar to Markus Jayne's "eating machine" rack for my ball pythons. And let me tell you that now I know why he calls it the "eating machine". I have yet to have any of my balls refuse food, and I had some extremely picky eaters. I based my design almost identical to MJ's design and it works perfectly. I have 11 inch flexwatt ran down the back of each rack. The rear of the tub gets around 89-91 degrees and the front of the tubs gets around 79-81 degrees. It seems the snakes love their new cages, especially since the tubs are larger (I found tubs that were 34"x16"x6" ), it allow for a better heat gradient and a natural dark hide in the rear of the tubs. I will post pics sometime soon for everyone to see.

So as you can tell by my long explanation...I think running 11 inch heat tape down the rear of the rack works great.

Hope this helps.
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Michael

Hi:

I have been to markus Jayne's web site before (www.ballpython.ca). Today I went back to it and looked at the rack. It looks good.

I have drawn some plans and I may end up going with the markus Jayne eating machine design (although I am not definite on that yet).

I appreciate everyone's help. There are many good plans out there and i have also gotten one from Ross2k! (thx, BTW).

I am going through and reading and re-reading everything and may take a little from each person's design and come up with my own.

Thx everyone. I'll let you know how everyhting turns out. The eating machine of Markus Jayne is an intriguing idea. Its title entices me to try his. I am thinking of using plywood and painting the surfaces with sealant.

The local Lowe's says they will cut the wood for me. Free for the first two cuts and $.25 per cut after that.

thx.
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Longtang. I like snakes and rats.

I've looked at that website many times (ballpython.ca) and it always fails to render properly for me... the images and text are almost unreadable. I also can't seem to find the page that shows this "eating machine" rack that you, and many others on this board, have mentioned. Do you happen to have a direct link that you have saved with this information on it? Any help is appreciated!

Clay

OK, nevermind. Something about the site just doesn't aggree with my Macs. Using a Windows machine, I was able to see the entire site, and found the pages I was looking for.

Thanks anyway.
Clay

I have replied to your post in the Aquarium forum...please check there so I don't have to repost. Thanks!

Here is a picture of the "eating machine" ball python rack that I have built. I built two that were based on the design of Markus Jayne's and they work perfectly. I was able to build both of the racks with tubs (which I need to buy a few more to fill the empty spaces), heat tape and materials for around $230. I bought the melamine at Lowe's and had them precut the sheets for me which made it very easy to assemble. I also bought casters which are bolted on the bottom which makes it very easy to move since these weigh so much. And 11 inch heat tape runs down the back of each rack which provides a perfect heat gradient from around 90 degrees hot side to 80 degrees cool side.

I love these racks and plan on building some more in the future as my collection grows. My snakes eat like crazy in this new rack!! Thank you Markus Jayne for the idea!

Hope this gives you some more ideas. Let us know how your rack turns out.

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Michael

since your tubs taper in towards the bottom, is there a gap between the tubs and the heat tape??
I was considering this same type of design, but I wasn't sure if the gap between the tubs and tape would give the desired result; as my tubs taper in as well.
Thanks TomChambers

Yes the tubs do slightly taper in at the bottom. But fortunately this has not affected the temperature. I am constantly monitoring it with 2 digital thermometers and one infared temp. gun. The rear of the tub gets around 89-91 degrees with the front being around 79-81 degrees. The snakes are loving it. My ambient room temperature is around 75-80 during the day.

Hope that answers your question. Feel free to ask any more and I'll do my best to answer them.

Thanks
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Michael

Have you had them through a winter yet??
If so did you need to keep the room temp "high" to maintain good temps in the tubs??
I ask because my house gets cool in the winter, and I was curious how cold the cool end would get.
I'm using a half-azzed rack I through together quick, utilizing belly heat. It works ok in the winter, but I need to build a bigger rack, so I want to do a nice job this time.
Thanks again
BTW I forgot to say your racks look real nice
TomChambers

Thanks for the compliments. No I have not had them through the winter time but I have tested the temps of the tubs in some lower ambient room temps and they seem to work well. I guess it depends on just how cold your room gets during winter time.
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Michael

I tend to keep my house cool in the winter myself. Therefore, i am a bit worried about the winter.

In the mean time, I am going to just build this rack and see how things turn out. If in the winter, I am going to need additional flexwatt, then I guess I will cross that bridge when it is time.

I am so excited about building this rack. Tomorrow Lowe's open @ 6 AM. If I get up that early, I am going to go.

I tend to be the kind of person who wakes up early if there is something exciting to which I look forward. Therefore, I would not be in the least bit surprised if I were up @ 6 AM tomorrow.

(sorry for the rambling--I digress)

p.s. please have a pleasant BP night!
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Longtang. I like snakes and rats.

Question for you, how or where did you ventilate the tubs?

Thanks
Bruce

I ventilated the tubs by drilling small holes around the upper part of the tub. Also, I left a tiny gap approximately 1/8" between the top of the tub and the shelf above. This allows the tubs to slide very easily and provides an excellent amount of ventilation for air circulation. And it's such a tiny amount of space the snakes can't escape through it.

Hope that helps.

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Michael

I ventilated the tubs by drilling small holes around the upper part of the tub. Also, I left a tiny gap approximately 1/8" between the top of the tub and the shelf above. This allows the tubs to slide very easily and provides an excellent amount of ventilation for air circulation. And it's such a tiny amount of space the snakes can't escape through it.

Hope that helps.

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Michael

my other rack...

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Michael

It looks like things will add to about $27 just for the wood.

I am building a similar thing to Markus Jayne with back heating. I am not using the 34 inch tubs. I am building single row of 22 X 16 X6 tub. I will stack about 6 in the rack.

Since my rack will be for the smaller tubs, I will not have the last six inches sticking out like the Markus Jayne eating machine.

I appreciate everyone's input. In the future, I may do the six inches sticking out thing for 34 inch long tubs.

cheers.

I will post pics! Lowe's open @ 6 am. I am going to get up early. I priced the wood today and I have drawn the plans and I know exactly what I need to buy tomorrow morning!

cheers.
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Longtang. I like snakes and rats.