Original post by EricWI — 2025-11-21 17:13:11 GMT

Does anyone out there know of any evidence that the Asian pentastome parasite, Raillietiella orientalis, was present in Florida before the Burmese python?

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by Suelzdlvr — 2020-03-06 01:48:28 GMT

Looking for adult male egyptian uromastyx to breed with my female. She has laid 2 infertile clutches. I don't want to purchase (unless available) but to use as a stud service. Will discuss payment with owner. Hopefully can find someone fairly close. Will wait to see if I get any takers. Thanks

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by scottnokes2020 — 2020-02-23 16:43:26 GMT

Hello all
I had a corn Snake that ate with no problem. I feed him last week and he regurgitated the mouse. Yesterday, I found her had died and had a green area underneath his belly about mid way along.
His temps and humidity are perfect.
He also had so bloody saliva in his mouth.
Did anyone know what may have happened.

Thank you

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by scottnokes2020 — 2020-02-23 16:42:14 GMT

Hello all
I had a corn Snake that ate with no problem. I feed him last week and he regurgitated the mouse. Yesterday, I found her had died and had a green area underneath his belly about mid way along.
His temps and humidity are perfect.
He also had so bloody saliva in his mouth.
Did anyone know what may have happened.

Thank you

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by mingdurga — 2019-08-12 13:30:42 GMT

They have a large incubator for sale on website with a $800 price. Looks big and capable but unanswered questions remain.
Can't find any reviews on this item. Anybody have one that's been used for several years?
I've been thru the homemade ideas enough times.

Thanks,

Mike

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by gingerbbbbbbbbb — 2019-03-12 01:43:17 GMT

I recently came back from a week long vacation and noticed one of my long tailed grass lizards was having issues. She was drastically different, exhibiting an extremely skinny body, sluggish, and not eating. She shows some interest in food but I couldn't get her to eat. Watching her drink, it is clear she is having some issues swallowing. After every drink she has to wiggle her whole body and do some weird jaw thing. She was left in the care of someone who does't own reptiles and would not have observed her long enough to notice such behavior, but all care was done as usual as instructed. Can anyone help? I'm thinking of separating her from the her tank mate which is a male who seems to be doing great. I'm hesitant to do so as it would be very hard to remove her and it would likely be extremely stressful for her.
I hope I'm posting this in the right place I just really need help I don't normally use forums.

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by HellishHin — 2017-12-31 20:51:27 GMT

Hello!

I received a baby Black Mexican Kingsnake for Christmas this year and I noticed he had a brown spot on one of the large black scales on his head. I thought maybe he just bumped it and I wasn't worried but then the brown spot grew to encompass the entire scale. This has been over about a week. Today the top brown layer just sloughed off and now it seems there is a fresh new scale underneath. I also noticed that other scales on his head are started to get brown at the edges. Could this be scale rot? Temp is around 70-80 F and humidity is between 40 and 50 so everything seems like it's just perfect for him. He also seems to be getting ready to shed but the brown spots started before he started turning blue. I have looked up scale rot on google images but it's a lot harder to tell with a black snake since I'm not as experienced with snake illnesses. The images are from just after the brown part rubbed off.

Thanks in advance!

P.S. His name is Asmodeus or "Mo" for short

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by Salz69 — 2017-09-12 21:38:39 GMT

I have a really nice 5'king. I have kept many snakes before, and rarely have any issues. Before I got him,I watched his eating habits in the pet store for over a month, he would voraciously take a mouse every week. When I got him home, he ate the first mouse I gave him right away, however it has been 6 weeks and he hasn't pooped it out. It is still a huge lump, back near his tail. He hasn't eaten since then either- 6 weeks! I've tried soaking him in warm water, dropping a mouse or a pinky in but the mouse ends up dying, not being eaten. Are there. Any other suggestions that you can give? He seem listless in his tank,but when. I let him out he seems curious and fine. Any help is appreciated
https://s3.amazonaws.com/gs-geo-images/71db59c9-4c9f-4833-a49a-1da2e41fb0b8.jpg

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by d3adwrath — 2017-04-26 13:52:06 GMT

Greetings herpers,

i recently had my MBK get lost in my car, at the time of loosing him he was showing early signs of blue phase maybe 3 days out from being fully in blue phase. i didnt find him until 2.5 weeks later, so happy i found him, but upon finding him i discovered a section of damaged scales roughly an inch long and half inch wide. (ill post pics later when my phone charges if possible.) Whats strange is i know he was in hiding for about the amount of time it would take him to get thru blue phase and shed and ive had him back for maybe 4 days and hes already going into blue phase again. could he be shedding from the damage? he wouldnt have eaten the entire time he was in my car and if im correct he shed roughly a week ago. any ideas on what this could be i still need to get him into the vet for a check up since finding him im waiting on my check was just looking for a little insight b4 then. he has ate and is drinking quite often

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by roughryder194 — 2017-04-26 01:32:15 GMT

female ackie seems to have irritated eye during mating what is the best thing to put on it

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by lenrely — 2016-07-31 04:44:45 GMT

I take in some difficult species and either transform them into good ones or let them go; I never thought this would be one of them. I only hesitate because this is the first hog I’ve kept in 8 years and people like her so much. I started her in a large tank with deep mulch for burrowing and left her alone for days with a constant assortment of toads; but she doesn’t forage. It doesn’t matter what kind of prey item or what it smells like, she won’t even sniff water or notice it’s there. So it’s a comfort/personality issue. She takes liquid food eagerly but hasn’t yet figured out how it gets in her mouth. I’ve tried coating toadlets with it and making her play dead; looking for any ideas I haven’t tried. Moving her to a smaller tank now with fewer places to hide from her own food. She is not gravid.

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by Ophis — 2016-03-26 17:25:20 GMT

Hello all!

This is my first post here and it's an unfortunate one.

I bought a juvinile Mexican Black Kingsnake last week. I was very excited because I've wanted to add one to my collection for a while now.

I had gone to the pet store to check it out a week prior and put a deposit on it. When I went, it was going into shed. I asked the person at the store if the snake had been sexed yet and he said no but he could check. While he was checking some of the snakes skin sluffed off.

When I returned a week later to pick up the snake it had shed but there was still some shed left on its tail area. No big deal I figured I could soak it once I'd gotten it home. Which I did. But once it was done I noticed a rough area near the vent which looked kind of wounded. I check to make sure it wasn't just stick shed. Now a week later the area is looking lighter and feels rough.

Is this possibly due to the skin coming off when it was being sexed? Is it just a simple wound that will probably heal by the next shed? Or should I be treating this in someway or taking it to the vet?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by zomzom231 — 2016-03-17 04:27:22 GMT

I'm having issues with the reptibator. Its thermometer and the extra digital thermometer i bought are showing very different temp readings. I got the lower one which is down at the egg level up to 88 and the top one now says 101. And i now can't get the humidity above to read above the low 50s. But is that indicative of the humidity lower in the incubator or in the individual egg containers? I'm tearing my hair out not knowing these things. The clutch came earlier than I expected and I was caught off guard.

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by zomzom231 — 2016-03-17 04:19:54 GMT

This is my first clutch ever and I'm worrying myself to death. They are blackhead python eggs, two to three days old. There are some blotches that concern me. How delicate are the eggs at this point, anyway?
http://gallery.kingsnake.com/photo.php?id=430793

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by markg — 2016-03-07 20:53:32 GMT

There was a thread in the hognose forum, and I maintained that distilled water should not be used for herps to drink because it lacks minerals.

Another poster stated his position - hognose drink very little water (snakes in general seldom drink standing water) and do more moisture absorption through skin contact. Plus, they do not sweat. So, the vast majority of minerals are consumed in prey and few minerals are lost compared to humans for example.

Very good points. But still, I say why reduce nutrition further, since our captive conditions are likely a compromise already.

Does anyone know anything about this subject? Thanks.

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by leonhartboas — 2016-02-15 11:23:53 GMT

Long story short, I am probably going to be on disability. I have decided to make my favorite hobby into a small business.

I bought in december two 5 year old brazilian rainbow boas from another breeder. He said they are confirmed male/female breeding pair, he just needs to downsize. He also said the female was currently in ovulation and all I needed to do was put them in a tank together and they should have babies in April.

Well they have been together since december. Mom had a post ovulation shed I believe. She is looking a bit "fat", but since this is my first time breeding I wanted to know if anyone knew of a guide on how to breed boas. I want everything from how to get her into her next cycle in a year of two after this clutch. I'd like to know how to tell she is pregnant, when can I take her into the vet to do an xray to confirm she is pregnant. is it best to remove dad for a few days then reintroduce him for the best chance of mating or is it best to let the two live together the whole time?

I've tried contacting a few breeders and nobody seems to want to give any help. For those worried about if I know what I am getting into, yes I already have 5 buyers waiting for my first clutch to be born and 3 local pet stores who are willing to take in quite a few babies to "resell" if I should not be able to find homes for everyone. I also have converted an old bookshelf to house each baby individually with index cards for labeling sheds/eating. I've also been freezing pinky mice from my breeders to make sure I have a large supply of food when the babies come. I've pretty much got the baby part done, its GETTING the babies I'm having trouble with.

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by BonnieK — 2016-01-08 11:27:05 GMT

Has anyone had eye problems in their reptiles? If so, you may want to check an article in www.uvguide.co.uk. It deals with a condition called photo-kerato-conjunctivitis. I have used the Reptisun 10.0 high output 18" fluorescent tubes for a number of years, and noticed eye problems in my Blue Spiny Lizards on and off since September of 2013. These are desert animals, but I've been to Laredo, Texas three times in the past three years, and noticed that "desert animals" DO NOT bask during the hottest, brightest times of the day. It is either early morning or late afternoon when the sun is not directly overhead. I had no idea that the lighting could be a problem due to the fact that it is the norm to give reptiles UVA/UVB radiation. Being in the northern USA, I change the bulbs on the first day of Fall every year for the high seasonal UVA/UVB output, knowing that the lights will degrade over time until windows can be opened the next Spring/Summer to allow these lizards the natural sunlight. They are suspended from the ceiling at a minimum of 18" from the highest point to 26" from the lowest. Out of five of these lizards, four had developed eye problems, which unbeknownst to me were caused by the lighting. Proof: I recently turned them off after reading the report, and things are back to more or less normal. Now they are a bit off-feed, and after two weeks of only basking lights, I've turned the fluorescent lights back on for a much shorter time. I've also ordered a Solarmeter to check the actual UVA/UVB emissions. According to the "uk" report above Zoo-Med's Reptisun's are not the only bulbs responsible for this problem. At least 40 case histories have been reported. My question is this. WHY ISN'T THERE SOME SORT OF WARNING ON THE PACKAGING THAT ALERTS THE CONSUMER ABOUT POSSIBLE EYE PROBLEMS?

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by snakemother — 2015-11-26 20:44:20 GMT

Monday I noticed my kingsnake making a sound like a squeaky toy. Upped. His temps. Today it's much less often but not gone. Everything I read says 2 days and it will be gone if the tempting helps. But it seems to be helping but not all gone yet. Is it time for the vet? Thanks.
-----
1.0.0 277 Graybanded Kingsnake, Boris Karloff - R.I.P.
1.0.0 Crockett Graybanded Kingsnake, Julien Sands
1.0.0 Ball Python, Frank Langella
1.0.0 Blue-eyed lucy, Ian McKellen
1.0.0 spider Ball python, Martin Freeman
1.0.0 champagne ball python, Norman Reedus
1.0.0 Sweet Rosy Bourke Parakeet, Didgeridoo
1.0.0 Ringneck Dove, Pimmdale Plumington
0.1.0 Smart & Loving Daughter

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by campdirector — 2015-11-26 03:56:01 GMT

Hello All,

So I think this post will be to late but hopefully the replies will help with any future problems. About 2 weeks ago I purchased a pair of hatchling cal kings. Both were doing great and ate about a week ago. I looked in on them this morning and one of them did not look right. It was moving strangely and looked stiff. I noticed three small brown spots on the snake one by the head and the other two on the body. This evening when I check on him, he was on his back twisting around. I took him out and looked at him and his body started contorting. He then went limp. I have only seen this once before in a yearling hognose I had about 10 years ago. I lost him and never knew what the problem was. Can anyone help? I am worried because I have several other snakes and I don't want them to be exposed if it is something contagious. Thanks everyone!

View full thread on Kingsnake.com

Original post by crotalus1976 — 2015-11-08 03:29:36 GMT

I have an awesome yearling male red het for red albino that fed great all year untill around September. He has always been a great feeder but for a few months now has turned away from all food offerings. I had been feeding him only F/T adult mice.I live in Ocean Springs, Mississippi so the climate here is still very warm and its November and in the low 80's here. All my other snakes are kept in very close proximity to my bulls and they are all eating great. I just recently bought a female red het for red albino from Jason Nelson and she is beautiful and feeding great on fuzzies once a week. She's a 2015 and my male also from Nelson and he is a 2014. Anyhow he is completely worth taking to the vet but i was wondering if Flagyl powder ( dewormer) mixed in with his water would help him flush out any understand needed or unwanted parasites that he may have internally acquired from some place.im not sure if there maybe some suggestions or encouragement to help me help my male bullsnake.

View full thread on Kingsnake.com