Reply by giantdaygecko — 2011-08-23 12:53:58 GMT

Your right "nathan23". Problem is they sell out quickly and the ones I have been trying to hold back someone always talks me into selling.
Link

Reply by nathan23 — 2011-08-09 08:04:20 GMT

Very Nice ! What a beauty of a gecko.
You should post a series of one animal from hatching to maturity ,of the blues, if you have the pics. If not it would be something cool to look into . . .

Reply by basinboa — 2011-07-28 20:38:34 GMT

They kept in a small box OVER a fridge, not IN.

They are now both in the 8 inch range. It's a pair.

They eat a lot and are quite active and not shy.

Basking spot is still in the 120F range, they seem to like it and I never had any problems.
It seems like a very hot temp but it's just warm to the touch. Plus it helps increasing overall cage temps.

Reply by LLDG — 2011-06-14 19:03:43 GMT

Kept in a refrigerator? Surprised they are alive at all.

The crickets are too big - go 1/2". Dust the crickets with a calcium/vitamin supplement before feeding to gecko.

Like your terrarium.

120ºF is a gecko-frying temperature. Their basking spot is best 88-93 F.

Recommended book: Day Geckos In Captivity, Christenson. Best price at Amazon.com; and Geckos, Bergman. If you read German there is even better.

Reply by basinboa — 2011-04-28 20:45:44 GMT

hi,

No, this is a custom made one.

Reply by Luis — 2011-04-24 23:06:40 GMT

Very pretty gecko hard to think it was neglected.

Is the terrarium an exo terra 18 by 24 inch model?

Thanks

Reply by basinboa — 2011-04-18 14:16:01 GMT

Reply by Ritas — 2011-03-19 23:49:55 GMT

Thank you very much .
Would you say these are one of the most "pair friendly" of the smaller day gecko types?

Reading about day geckos it seemed some would kill each other in pairs but this seemed to be more "pair friendly" and have room in 30 extra tall tank thus narrowed it down to them.

Thanks

Reply by zmarchetti — 2011-03-19 22:11:48 GMT

A male/female pair should be fine in a tank that size. Provide appropriate foliage/cover and they should get along great. Male female aggression can happen but is not nearly as common as male/male aggression so make sure the pair is properly sexed as it can be a bit tricky with the small Phelsuma spp.

Although a pair should be fine, keep a close eye on them for problems and separate them if things get out of hand.

good luck
-----
Zach

Reply by pollyfrogman — 2012-02-16 18:46:59 GMT

She still has this problem. Does anyone actually know the cause of it?

I bought the repashy day gecko MRP and she eats it regularly. The only problem is that it has caused her calcium sacs to grow larger and they are still solid. Is she not creating liquid calcium? Does this have something to do with the amounts of Vit. D3 or phosphorous relative to her calcium intake? Does anyone have an idea on any high phosphorous baby foods I could supplement and, assuming I could get the sacs down to normal size, if she will synthesize liquid calcium properly ever again? I have tried looking this up elsewhere and I cannot find any information about it so any help is appreciated.

Reply by pollyfrogman — 2011-04-04 17:43:01 GMT

Howdy! I haven't gotten any of the supplementation you recommended yet, but she has been in her own ten gallon for about a month now with an incandescent UV bulb and a heat lamp. She's been eating and is much more active now, the calcium sac itself is decreasing in size very slowly as well. I'm feeding her some peach baby food a few times a week and supplementing the herptivite multivitamin with the babyfood about once a week. She's eating superworms a couple times a week as well. Am I correct to assume that her body will take advantage of the solid calcium mass when it can before it takes it from her bones if I provide her with a proper vit. d3 and phosphorous balance? Will baby food made from fruits higher in phosphorous aid in the mass of calcium's metabolization?

Reply by Geckoranch — 2011-03-04 19:00:46 GMT

From the info you are supplying here she sounds run down (incomplete shed, lack of eggs, lethargy, off-color, can't catch crickets to eat?) and likely hypocalcemic. To get her to stabilize I would use Allen Repashy's Rescue Cal, a powder you mix with warm or boiling water to create a liquid calcium that goes right in the bloodstream. I have attached a picture of the label, I can send a spec sheet if you like (or anyone else). This stuff works fast and more effectively than the other common remedy of Calcium glubionate, which is really hard to find nowadays. You could mix it into her food or give it to her orally.

A non-domestic veterinarian I know and trust feels that oral D3 may be problematic for certain reptiles, which affects their processing of Calcium, and full spectrum lighting may be a better way to supply it. Many products on the market have what many consider is an overdose of D3 for geckos. The regimen of RepCal and Herptivite you are using does not work (used it for many years here with same results as you) for female P. standingi that are adult breeders so I would phase that out for sure and switch to Calcium Plus (middle of the road D3, less than RepCal) for now with full-spectrum lighting you are doing and hope eventually it will decrease the size of those sacs.

Be advised full-spectrum lighting my need to be replaced as often as 6 months, it is a good idea to put a date sticker on the housing somewhere so you can keep track of that and follow the manufacturer's directions.

I would also switch to the Day Gecko food I helped develop at the Gecko Ranch Allen Repashy just came out with to drastically improve her nutrition over the carb load of babyfood. It has the same nutrients (protein, Calcium Plus and a lot more) as Crested Gecko Diet, and a flavor combo they can't resist (Fig and Cherry). I haven't used any baby food here on my Phelsuma since Crested Gecko Diet came out many years back!

Please keep us posted on how she does. I have another non-domestic vet interested in the case, so I will post any relevant details as they become available.

Reply by pollyfrogman — 2011-03-04 06:15:45 GMT

Hi! Thanks for all the info. She was in a 48"x24"x24" container with a male. They've been together for five years or so with no egg laying or reproductive activity, though I've not really tried to promote it. That cage had an ambient temp of around room temp with a basking spot in the 90-100 range.

She had trouble with her last shed getting the skin off the underside of her toes so she wasn't able to climb around and get to the basking spot, hence the inability to metabolize the calcium. I have her in her own tank now with the appropriate temperature and a UV bulb. I'm feeding her baby food, peach mainly with a mix of 1:1 herptivite:repcal supplements once a week added. Aside from the giant ball she is acting normal and she doesn't seem to be having any issues processing the food. Should I hold off on supplementation until this calcium rock is dissolved?

Reply by Geckoranch — 2011-03-04 02:05:10 GMT

Hi! Cindy Steinle asked me to respond. I am a Phelsuma breeder with 18 years of experience breeding over 30 species of Phelsuma. I have not seen a case this pronounced with the excessive calcium sacs. These need veterinary intervention by a non-domestic vet, either by medication and or surgery as these hardened deposits are painful to the gecko. I'll speak a little about this gecko so we can process and understand our total experiences.

P. standingi is a large Day Gecko that is from an arid area of Madagascar. They need a basking temp of about 95-100F to feel comfortable and exhibit their best color - yours is not exhibiting good color, which is cause for worry. This whitish off-color yours displays, which is normally blue/green/gray, is likely because of a temperature and or nutrition issue. Since we have discussed temperature, let's talk about supplementation and then nutrition.

P. standingi produce some of the heaviest calcified eggs in the genus of Phelsuma, and females need a lot of calcium to do this in their diet. Supplementation is critical. I am curious to learn what supplement this gecko is on and if she is kept under full-spectrum lighting. She is unable, for some reason, to metabolize all the calcium she is getting. In order to metabolize calcium properly, other vitamins and minerals, such as D3 and phosphorus in particular, need to be in correct ratios. If these ratios are off, due to supplementation and/or diet and lighting (full spectrum/regular incandescent).

I have had a few cases of female P. standingi with big calcium sacs and hypocalcemia (not enough calcium). This was evidenced by eggs not hatching, and x-rays of a female with four broken legs with huge calcium sacs. This was with no full-spectrum lighting and RepCal Ultrafine with D3 and Herptivite, which I eventually used 2 parts RepCal Ultrafine with D3 and Herptivite, and my results did not improve.

I have since switched to Calcium Plus by Allen Repashy, which for non-breeding females and males is fine, however, I am using one of his higher D3 supplements, the SuperCalMeD, which has a bit more D3 to help with Calcium metabolism for breeding females. This is mixed equal parts with SuperVite, his multi-vitamin companion part of this system. I use full spectrum lighting, so I am reluctant to use the highest D3 he has, SuperCalHyD, thinking I will overdose them on D3 and get big calcium Sacs. Results: the females calcium sacs are a bit bigger using this technique, their color is good, we'll see what happens this breeding season to see what we can conclude about this solution. If you female is not breeding I would use Calcium Plus for now and see what the vet recommends to either get rid of those sacs surgically or with metabolic solutions like the one I am using with Allen Repashy's custom supplements and full-spectrum lighting.

Just a note, leaving calcium out in the terrarium with a gecko in this condition will exacerbate the condition. Many folks do not understand how calcium is metabolized and they often just supplemented it by itself and not with the necessary vitamins and minerals like phosphorus and D3 so the gecko can process the calcium properly. Geckos have particular requirements in these ratios, I feel Allen Repashy has this sorted out as well as it can be by anyone and has been proven out on my large collection of over 100 Phelsuma for many years. Many supplements are have toxic levels of D3 (too high) for geckos so beware.

As far as diet, mine get Repashy Crested Gecko MRP, also his Day Gecko MRP (MRPs already supplemented), and three week old crickets supplemented with either Calcium Plus or the custom higher D3 mix depending if the gecko is breeding or not. During the peak season the geckos eat three times a week, winter twice a week, crickets usually given once a week, sometimes every other week.

I hope this helps, please let me know some more details about this gecko's husbandry and we can go from there.

Reply by Ritas — 2011-03-19 23:56:41 GMT

I was looking at your site very nice. I am in S.Miami not far from Keys.
Did not think you could house them outside all yr long by your area esp since last 2 winter cold spells.

I have seen day geckos in Keys running wild but have no idea what types .

Either way pretty geckos and interesting site.

Reply by GiantDayGecko — 2011-01-18 19:16:24 GMT

Sorry, please see CORRECT link below for pictures of BLUE giant day geckos.

Image

Reply by poskok030 — 2010-07-19 17:56:23 GMT

Mistery solved

Reply by poskok030 — 2010-06-09 21:00:04 GMT

Thanks! I forgot to mention that it’s still growing fast, about 15cm long now...

Reply by Geckoranch — 2010-06-09 20:01:44 GMT

Looks like Mrs. to me!

Reply by poskok030 — 2010-06-09 09:40:19 GMT

Just in case you need to see its face too

Reply by RickGordon — 2010-07-19 04:59:48 GMT

Also, Iam assuming that you have a screen cage and your not keeping her in an aquarium outside, that is certain death.

Reply by RickGordon — 2010-07-19 04:57:59 GMT

Natural sunlight stimulate hormone production and a lizard that has not been outside ever, or in long while is likely to become stressed, agitated and unusually agressive. The first time I brought my dog tame six foot iguana out into the sun, he nearly ripped my finger off in a hormonal rage. Consider akin to a steroid shot. Make sure that your lizard has access to shade, shelter and water, and slowly increase the amount of outside time until she calms to it.

Reply by Adrn — 2010-04-08 19:39:23 GMT

I would say yes given all the factors you provided. However, there will always be the chance of one dominating the other no matter what. As with most phelsuma, some will get along while others will not. If you then tried to include a male that could get dangerous.