Original post by MichaelSmith — 2018-05-14 03:37:14 GMT
Hi,
I am researching frogs and their peptide antibiotic skin secretions. I was hoping to be able to compare the frog secretions to human saliva for my science project, however to do this project, I am going to need a large amount of frog skin secretions. Does anybody know where or how I would be able to obtain these frog skin secretions?
Any help will be apprecited.
I didn't find the right solution from the Internet.
References:
https://bit.ly/2IdEZAT
Creative video production service
Thank you.
]]>Original post by MichaelSmith — 2018-05-11 03:44:48 GMT
Hi,
Today the house I inspected has obviously had water in the crawl space recently. Didn't appear to be an on going problem. I assumed it was just a wet weather problem, then I found my little green buddy hoping across the plastic. The more I looked the more I am thinking that this is a bigger problem than it appears.
So I will report what I saw and photographed and let the home buyer decide what to do.
But... would you mention the frog?? (Not a toad, but a frog) Frogs can't/don't live in a dry crawlspaces. Seems to indicate that this is not a dry crawlspace to me.
Any help will be apprecited.
I didn't find the right solution from the Internet.
References:
https://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/viewtopic.php?t=12997
Corporate video animation Company
Thank you.
]]>Original post by nickyminaj — 2018-03-28 12:08:21 GMT
Hello,
There have been a few instances in the last couple of years where it might be possible to breed frogs that have been in the US for a while with frogs that are relatively newer imports. The two I can think of off the top of my head are Vanzos (EU vs. UE) and Bulls-eyes (old line vs. Tesoros), but there might be more. Since Vanzos are the same species with no particular locale info (that I am aware of) and Bulls-eyes also seem to be from similar areas (at least judging by phenotype), do you guys think it's OK to breed the old line individuals with new imports?
Please help.
I didn't find the right solution from the Internet.
References:-
https://bit.ly/2GiUKlc
Promo video company
Thanks
]]>Original post by nickyminaj — 2018-03-28 12:07:39 GMT
Hi,
I recently ordered a group of Mantellas which the seller shipped out today, I asked for Saturday delivery and if that isn't possible then to ship it next week. The seller said it should be no problem, but now that I am tracking the package...fedex shows it not being delivered till Monday!! I called fedex and they are unwillingly to do anything because I was not the sender. It's an extra $16 for saturday delivery which I will GLADLY paid to ensure they get here safe but I have not heard back from the seller and its already getting late here. What do you guys think are the chances of them surviving till Monday if this doesn't get fix?
Please help.
I didn't find the right solution from the Internet.
References:-
https://bit.ly/2pNwFfc
Marketing video service
Thanks
]]>Original post by ShermanFrog — 2017-05-23 00:18:25 GMT
I have an African Bullfrog that will not wake up. I wasn't too concerned at first, but now he (??) is getting very thin. Put him in water, keeping tank wetter than normal, what now?
]]>Original post by XPhoenixRisingX — 2016-09-21 05:30:12 GMT
I am looking for a trusted seller that is selling Samaurai Blue Pacman Frogs.
]]>Original post by whitneywee — 2015-11-01 15:50:30 GMT
Is anyone working with these?
]]>Original post by Austin1121 — 2015-10-15 05:15:43 GMT
Hey guys I am getting a Few FBT and just wanted some help. Here's my Questions,
1 Can I keep a Black Racer Snail with them ?
2 How can I create a divider for my tank (Its a 50 gallon tank its mostly wide.).
3 Can I feed them Feeder fish every one and a while.
4 What kind of plants can I put in the water part, But it has to be from a place like Petco or Pet smart. I have no reptile store near me unfortunately.
]]>Original post by dalekcaan4 — 2015-02-21 01:36:36 GMT
Hello everyone!
I love my pacman frog Ethel, I've had her for about 3/4s of a year and I've had a constant problem with her that i can't seem to solve, this is why im here.
i can't get her to eat anything other than pinkies.
i got her to eat a cricket ONCE
when i first got her i tried a variety of foods and she refuses all of them apart from the mice
i know its not good for her and that's why i want help
thank you
Original post by gnorthup87 — 2014-03-16 19:58:26 GMT
We have multiple American bullfrogs that keep developing lesions. Directly following their arrival from Carolina Bio Lab Supply in September, their feet became swollen and red so we began dosing the water with 26.6ml of stress coat every water change (twice a week). Their feet got better but then in December, they developed lesions on their legs and back, which start as what look like black blisters or slight discolorations. The bullfrogs were housed with a wild caught leopard frog that died and may have brought something into the system. We have tried a number of treatments recommended to us by our veterinarian including: food injected 0.1mL Enrofloxacin (5mg/mL) for about 2 weeks in conjunction with topical silvadene to wounds, 0.07mL Enrofloxacin (22.7mg/mL concentration) applied transdermally to their back (never on top of wounds) for 2 weeks. Neither treatment seemed to improve the wounds and silvadene actually seemed to irritate it more because of the application process.
They are housed in a 250 gallon aquarium with about 50 gallons of water (in aquarium and sump). Ambient air temperature is 75-80*F, humidity 80-88%, water temperature 72-75*F, pH 8.8-8.9, ammonia 0, and nitrite 0.01-0.02mg/mL. There are 3 Repti-glo 5.0 UVB bulbs, 3 Repti-glo 2.0 UVB bulbs, and 2 Repti-glo 25 watt heat bulbs mounted 20” above the frogs with plexiglass below them. The exhibit was created using a layer of bricks on the bottom, a layer of pea gravel, then a layer of freshwater Eco-Complete Planted Aquarium Substrate. There are three long planters with drain holes in the bottom, a layer of pea gravel, a layer of Eco-Complete, and then a layer of Organic Soil (we planned to have live plants but they didn’t work out). The decorative rock is flagstone. We have a sock filter, blue pre-filter, bioballs, and a pump sponge to help filtration. There is also a rain-bar made from irrigation dripline. Both of these pumps are sitting directly in the sump. We use tapwater that is run through a mechanical pleated filter, and then a carbon filter to fill the tank after water changes. Two TetraFauna ReptoGuard Sulfa-Blocks are placed in the sump about once a month (they advertise they last 45-60 days however they disintegrate a lot quicker in our tank).
Attached are photos of the aquarium and the frogs. The password for photos is "bullfrog". Any ideas on what could be causing this would be greatly appreciated!!
Reply by OrangeHeterodon — 2014-03-18 19:48:45 GMT
If the issue is a pathogen that the WC Leopard Frog brought to the bull frogs, most spreading infections are going to be viral or bacterial. If it is viral there is not much that can be done except to hope the bullfrogs have a healthy and functional immune system.
If it is bacterial then you can fix it but it will be a pain. If the bacteria was treated for but then came back it is probably because it is now living in the enclosure. If this is the case, a complete cleaning and sterilization of the enclosure and all the parts MIGHT be required depending on the bacterium species. This can be costly, time consuming, or both. After words care must be taken to avoid chemical contamination from whatever was used to sterilize the enclosure.
The last possibility that immediately comes to my mind is that the Carolina Biological Supply Lab's population might have an internal contaminant but I highly doubt that. Always worth a check though, heck you might be the ones that brings it to their attention before there is a wide-spread issue. Again though, they are rather on top of what they are doing over there.
My belief, and most likely result, is something be it a deadly anuran virus or a bacteria, or even a parasite, came in with the Leopard Frog. I catch amphibians to breed, release, and raise the tadpoles all the time for my 2 Heterodon platirhinos. Occasionally I will get a Bronze/Green Frog or Toad with some unknown contaminant that if left alone, 2 times out of 3, spreads to the other amphibians in the enclosure.
Also, the password to see the pictures appears to not work. Unless the quotation marks are part of what I type in, just bullfrog does not work.
Good luck with them and hopefully the issue with the frogs can be resolved.
Original post by brucealfred — 2013-10-24 22:22:40 GMT
can someone PLEASE help us--we got two red belly frogs about a month ago---one will not eat!! One was eating and has stopped...we feed them crickets and tried waxworms. We tried feeding them in a different aquarium with both frogs and alone...tried morning/evening....have a glass container and they jump in and drown/stomp crickets to death. Put crickets on a large flat piece decoration and they commit suicide. dangled crickets in their face! help or we may have to give them up for adoption....
Reply by OrangeHeterodon — 2013-10-31 13:44:12 GMT
Temp level of ambient air in cage and temp level of water? Could be too cold. I don't know what it is for red-bellies but you can check hundreds of care sheets available online and at pet stores.
Have the crickets been dusted? I keep tree frogs and I dust food with calcium and us a 2.0 UV for amphibians (similar to lizards). Amphibians don't get calcium needed for bone health from insects and the UV vitamin D helps process the calcium. A bone deformity can be an issue, although this usually takes several months to a year or two to develop.
Try feeding them at night. Isolate the toads and feed separately. Measure X number of crickets into cage and leave them alone for the night at a comfortable temperature (for the toads). This works well for all amphibians that I have kept. Make sure that the toad can hide as well so that it can eat while concealed should it choose to.
As mentioned above, offer food then do not observe. The toads may see you and not be willing to eat because they think that you are a predator. Amphibians will sit dead still to try and hide until approached -- then they flee into a good hiding area.
As far as hiding areas, does the set-up look like a pet-store setup that has nowhere to hide? Lack of hiding areas can cause any herp to not eat after long enough time. The stress will eventually become too much and kill the herp if it can't hide. Several hides on both ends of the cage should be given.
Is there enough water? Fire-belly toads like to have plenty of water. Is there enough dry space for both toads to be on land when they want and be comfortable while doing so?
How often is the cage cleaned? If any feces is or was hidden from sight in the water for long enough a strong bacterial presence could have accumulated and infected one or both toads. This MAY or may not be a big issue depending on the bacteria species, assuming this happened.
Good luck with them.
Original post by Asteri — 2013-07-24 01:42:15 GMT
Hi,
This tadpole came in to my store with a shipment of goldfish and we cannot figure out what frog/toad it will grow into, or if its even a tadpole at all. I've never seen a tadpole this large before.
Think you might be able to take a shot in the dark?
Original post by colorconstrictor — 2013-07-13 10:21:04 GMT
Caught this guy at a local pond. He's decent sized, comparable to an average adult hand. I can't believe he survived even this long given he was found in a somewhat small lake/pond filled with common snappers of all sizes... Because, we'll, look at the colors on him. He stands out like a sore thumb.
I'm more of a reptile guy, boas, pythons and such.
I'm somewhat familiar with morphs and genetics but not so much with amphibians. he strikes me as a leucistic. BUT, his eyes are not pure black. I also can't assume he is albino given his eyes are not pink and to make matters even more confusing he does have splotches of regular-bullfrog-green markings around his head.
As far as I can tell his eyes are no different than any other bullfrog color-wise.
Can anyone help me out with this guy? Anyone want to take a stab at why 90% of his body is white? Would appreciate it very much, thanks in advance for anyone that can help me out here.
P.s. apologies that I only uploaded one picture. I'm used to computers but I am using an I pad right now and I can't figure out how to save other pictures under a different name. When I try to upload the other pics I took of him with this iPad I run into errors because for some reason all the pictures are saved under the same name and I have no idea how to "save as" on this device.
Reply by emysbreeder — 2014-03-05 22:54:10 GMT
Very cool! Looks like a pied, kinda like the Ball Python pied, and other Python morps with black spots. I cant tell from pic but sometimes mud stains their skin and it sheds out in time. I have bred the Yellow Albinos with red eyes. Ive been looking for a very rare "blue Bullfrog" but never was able to find one for sale. Let me know if you want to sell it. Vic Morgan
Original post by H3Spartan117 — 2013-05-28 03:32:13 GMT
Hi,
I have an old above ground that has several greys and green tree frogs in it, but I also have two of these guys and can find anything that matched them from Alabama's Fish and Wildlife website?
https://plus.google.com/photos/116900732442706809454/photo/5882864515329664642
https://plus.google.com/photos/116900732442706809454/photo/5882864585916872338
https://plus.google.com/photos/116900732442706809454/photo/5882864672875798210
https://plus.google.com/photos/116900732442706809454/photo/5882864725039068914
https://plus.google.com/photos/116900732442706809454/photo/5882864801675876946
Link
Reply by bob h — 2013-09-30 17:11:03 GMT
These look like barking treefrogs to me!
Reply by H3Spartan117 — 2013-05-28 03:37:56 GMT
sorry for the dead URLs. Click the "LINK" at the bottom of the URLs and it will load my Album. Also I forgot to mention I am located in North East Alabama by Weiss Lake/Centre.
Original post by emysbreeder — 2013-03-08 03:17:01 GMT
Can you get these in the USA. Anyone breeding them? From India, dont know common name. Very farout breeding colors. Vic
]]>Original post by ajdekker — 2012-11-13 18:50:46 GMT
Does anyone know where i could find a albino pixi?
Reply by aReyoUherper — 2013-02-07 19:25:37 GMT
have you tried the local reptile expo? btw how much do they even go for?i realize if you cant find one you might not know the cost of one but y not ask...
Original post by morgana — 2012-10-29 21:01:41 GMT
I was just outside bringing plants in because it's going to be in the 30s here in Ga. tonight, and I had this teenie (thumbnail sized) baby green tree frog move by my shoe. It was so cold I picked it up and brought it inside. I have snakes, so finding a warm place for it was no problem. It's currently enjoying the basking lamp in my pythons cage. It's so teenie he's totally ignoring it. (Plus he ate 3 rats yesterday)
I'm assuming the frog food has to be REALLY small, so I'm thinking fruit flies? Any input would sure be appreciated. Thanks. Mj
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1.0.0 BP
1.1.0 Chondro
Original post by eipper — 2012-10-19 22:40:39 GMT
Hi all,
I am pleased to announce that the reptile book series that Scott Eipper, Danny Brown and Adam Elliott have been working on for what seems like an eternity are finally to be released in the next month, with the official public release at the Reptile Expo in Ipswich.
Scott's books include:A GUIDE TO AUSTRALIAN SNAKES IN CAPTIVITY—ELAPIDS AND COLUBRIDS This full colour, 280 page book provides detailed information on all aspects of captive husbandry relating to the most commonly kept species of Australian Elapid and Colubrid snakes. Over 500 full colour images support General Management information including understanding the different snake families, pet qualities, selection, handling, social behaviour, characteristics and habits, Handling including equipment and methods, transportation, Housing including indoor and outdoor types of enclosures, temperature and thermoregulation, lighting, ventilation, humidity, substrates, water requirements, Feeding including nutrition and food types, Breeding including sexing, cues, methods, mating and courtship, care of gravid females, egg-laying and birth, incubation and neonate care.
An essential overview of Health and Diseases is presented by Dr Robert Johnson BVSc MACVSc (Feline Medicine) CertZooMed BA Grad Dip Asian Studies CMAVA, and includes a glossary of health terms.
Individual species chapters profile the colubrids—the Brown Tree, Common Tree and Slaty Grey Snakes and the Keelback. The larger elapid family includes death adders, copperheads, the Australian Coral Snake, the crowned, small-eyed and whip groups, the DeVis’ Banded, White-lipped, Bardick, Red-naped, Orange-naped, Brown-headed, Swamp and Tiger Snakes, the broad-headed group, the taipans, the hooded and large black snake group, the Red-bellied Black Snake, the large and small brown groups, the Curl and Rough-scaled Snakes and the Bandy Bandy, as well as the sole member of the Homalopsid family, the Macleay’s Water Snake. Within each species chapter information is presented on Description, In the Wild, Captive Housing, Diet, Breeding, Longevity, Ease of Keeping, Venom and Bite, Availability and includes a distribution map.
The book is completed with a Glossary, References, Australian Herpetological Societies and Wildlife Licensing Authorities and First Aid.
A GUIDE TO AUSTRALIAN FROGS IN CAPTIVITY
This full colour, 152 page book provides detailed information on all aspects of captive husbandry relating to the most commonly kept species of Australian frogs. Over 220 full colour images support General Management information including pet qualities, social behaviour and habits, selection, handling, transportation, Housing including indoor and outdoor set-ups, types of enclosures, thermoregulation and heating, lighting, humidity, substrates, water requirements, Feeding including nutrition and live prey, Breeding including cues and stimulus, breeding cycles and tadpole requirements.
An essential overview of Health and Diseases is presented by Dr Robert Johnson BVSc MACVSc (Feline Medicine) CertZooMed BA Grad Dip Asian Studies CMAVA, and includes a glossary of health terms.
Individual species chapters profile 22 species in the Hylidae family of tree frogs—the Eastern Snapping, Water-holding, Green and Gold Bell, Green Tree, Red-eyed Green Tree, Blue Mountains Tree, Brown Tree, Dwarf Tree, Dainty Tree, Giant Tree, Leseur’s, Motorbike, Narrow-fringed, Peron’s, Green Stream, Southern Bell, Roth’s Tree, Red Tree, Magnificent Tree, Whistling Tree, Stoney Creek and Orange-thighed Frogs. The five species in the Limnodynastidae family of marsh frogs covered include the Giant Burrowing, Eastern Banjo, Striped Marsh, Spotted Marsh and Holy Cross Frogs and the five species in the Myobatrachidae family of ground frogs featured include the Common Froglet, the Great Barred, Giant Barred, the Red-crowned and the Southern Toadlets.Within each species chapter, information is presented on Description, In the Wild, Housing, Diet, Breeding, Ease of Keeping, and Availability and includes a distribution map.
The book is completed with a Glossary, References, Australian Herpetological Societies and Wildlife Licensing contacts.
Danny's contribution is five books, four of which will be released immediately and the 'Bible" (“A Guide to Australian Lizards in Captivity”) that is completed and will be released next year
A Guide to Australian Lizards in Captivity” DUE OUT 2013
This full colour, 963 page book by Dr Danny Brown provides the most comprehensive and detailed account of Australian Lizards species with information on all aspects of captive husbandry relating to all species of Australian Lizards that may be maintained in captivity. This includes individual chapters on Bynoe’s and Desert cave Geckoes, Dtellas and House Geckos, Chameleon Geckos, Giant Cave and Giant Tree Geckos, Knob-Tailed Geckos, Leaf-Tailed geckos, Spiny-Tailed Geckos, Ring-Tailed Geckos, Small Terrestrial geckos, Thick-Tailed Geckos, Velvet Geckos and the Pygopods including Delma’s, Scaly-Foots and Burtons Legless Lizards, Blue-Tongued and Shingleback Skinks, Burrowing Skinks, Crevice Skinks and their Allies, Forest and Water Skinks, Prickly Forest and Nangur Skinks, Rainbow Skinks, Sand Swimmers, Slender Blue-Tongue Skinks, Pink-Tongued Skinks, Small Terrestrial Skinks, Striped Skinks, Bearded Dragons, Crevice and Rock Dragons, Two-Lined Dragons, Earless dragons, Heath Dragons, Frilled Dragons, Large Arboreal Dragons, Rainforest dragons, Sand Dragons, Small arboreal Dragons, Thorny Devils, Water Dragons, , Large Terrestrial and Arboreal Monitors, Rock Monitors, Rainforest Monitors, Small Terrestrial Monitors, Small and Medium Arboreal Monitors and Water Monitors.
The book is littered with the largest collection of reptile images ever presented with over 3000 images from some of Australia’s finest reptile photographers, many unique to this book and many showing species never before illustrated, undescribed species and unobserved behaviours. These full colour images show all aspects of sexing, housing, breeding as well as the general appearance of the species within each chapter including dozens of morphotypes of visually variable species.
Whilst this title is a compilation of a proportion of the information in the four individual titles on Dragons, Skinks, Monitors, and Geckos and Pygopods it includes an additional four chapters, more extensive information on natural history, taxonomy and husbandry techniques and over 3000 images, almost twice the unique images of all the individual books combined.
The Book begins with a 100 page section on General husbandry that covers Stock Selection, Handling and Hygiene, Transportation, Purchase Etiquette, Security and Safety, Quarantine, Indoor and Outdoor Enclosure Options, Enclosure size, Compatibility, Ventilation, Substrate choices, Hide sites, Enclosure Enrichment, Heating, Lighting, Thermostats, Invertebrate and Vertebrate food items, Artificial diets, Culturing Insect foods, Dietary Supplements and Dealing with Feeding problems.
This is followed with 60 pages on breeding that includes Visual sexing techniques, other Sexing techniques including some revolutionary new methods, Courtship and Mating, Cooling and Separation, Reproductive Strategies, Caring for gravid females, Nest facilities, Egg Management, Artificial Incubation facilities and regimes, Temperature Dependent Sex Determination and Hatchling care. The final section in the Husbandry chapters is a comprehensive 40 page guide to common Diseases and Disorders of Australian Lizards such as Nutritional, Parasitic, Skin, Nail, Eye, Respiratory, Traumatic, Reproductive and Oral disorders. This is completed with a guide to Administration of Medications and Making the most of your Reptile Veterinarian. Within each of the 39 Genus/Species chapters, information is presented on Pronunciation, Descriptions, Sexing, Subspecies, Distribution, Habitat, Captive status, Indoor and Outdoor Housing, Compatibility, Feeding, Breeding methods, Incubation, Colour variants and Hybrids. Much of this information is published here for the first time. The book is completed with chapters on Herpetological Societies, Websites, an extensive Bibliography and a Glossary of common reptile words and phrases. My small book series includes:
A Guide to Australian Dragons in Captivity”This full colour, 296 page book, with over 450 images, by Dr Danny Brown provides detailed information on all aspects of captive husbandry relating to the most commonly kept species of Australian Dragon Lizards including Bearded Dragons, Crevice and Rock Dragons, Two-Lined Dragons, Earless dragons, Heath Dragons, Frilled Dragons, Large Arboreal Dragons, Rainforest dragons, Sand Dragons, Small arboreal Dragons and Water Dragons.
A Guide to Australian Geckos and Pygopods in Captivity”This full colour, 352 page book ,with over 600 images, by Dr Danny Brown provides detailed information on all aspects of captive husbandry relating to the most commonly kept species of Australian Gecko and Pygopod species including Bynoe’s and Desert cave Geckoes, Dtellas and House Geckos, Giant Cave and Giant Tree Geckos, Knob-Tailed Geckos, Leaf-Tailed geckos, Spiny-Tailed Geckos, Ring-Tailed Geckos, Small Terrestrial geckos, Thick-Tailed Geckos, Velvet Geckos and the Pygopods including Delma’s, Scaly-Foots and Burtons Legless Lizards.
A Guide to Australian Skinks in Captivity This full colour, 360 page book ,with over 500 images, by Dr Danny Brown provides detailed information on all aspects of captive husbandry relating to the most commonly kept species of Australian Skink species including Blue-Tongued and Shingleback Skinks, Burrowing Skinks, Crevice Skinks and their Allies, Forest and Water Skinks, Prickly Forest Skinks, Rainbow Skinks, Sand Swimmers, Slender Blue-Tongue Skinks, Pink-Tongued Skinks, Small Terrestrial Skinks and Striped Skinks.
A Guide to Australian Monitors in Captivity This full colour, 264 page book, with over 400 images, by Dr Danny Brown provides detailed information on all aspects of captive husbandry relating to the most commonly kept species of Australian Monitor species including Large Terrestrial and Arboreal Monitors, Rock Monitors, Small Terrestrial Monitors, Small and Medium Arboreal Monitors and Water Monitors.
These books are littered with full colour images showing all aspects of sexing, housing, breeding and general appearance of the species within each chapter using images from some of Australia’s finest reptile photographers, most unique to this book series. The Books begin with a section on General husbandry that covers Stock Selection, Handling and Hygiene, Transportation, Purchase Etiquette, Security and Safety, Quarantine, Indoor and Outdoor Enclosure Options, Enclosure size, Compatibility, Ventilation, Substrate choices, Hide sites, Enclosure Enrichment, Heating, Lighting, Thermostats, Invertebrate and Vertebrate food items, Artificial diets, Culturing Insect foods, Dietary Supplements and Dealing with Feeding problems. This is followed with a section on breeding that includes Visual sexing techniques, other Sexing techniques including some revolutionary new methods, Courtship and Mating, Cooling and Separation, Reproductive Strategies, Caring for gravid females, Nest facilities, Egg Management, Artificial Incubation facilities and regimes, Temperature Dependent Sex Determination and Hatchling care. The final section in the Husbandry chapters is a comprehensive guide to common Diseases and Disorders of Dragons such as Nutritional, Parasitic, Skin, Nail, Eye, Respiratory, Traumatic, Reproductive and Oral disorders. This is completed with a guide to Administration of Medications and Making the most of your Reptile Veterinarian. Within each chapter, information is presented on Pronunciation, Descriptions, Sexing, Subspecies, Distribution, Habitat, Captive status, Indoor and Outdoor Housing, Compatibility, Feeding, Breeding methods, Incubation, Colour variants and Hybrids. The books are completed with chapters on Herpetological Societies, Websites, an extensive Bibliography and a Glossary of common reptile words and phrases.
Adam’s book includes:
A GUIDE TO AUSTRALIAN TURTLES IN CAPTIVITY
This full colour, 192 page book provides detailed information on all aspects of captive husbandry relating to the most commonly kept species of Australian turtles.
Over 300 full colour images support General Husbandry information including pet qualities, handling methods, Housing including indoor and outdoor set-ups, water requirements, heating and lighting, Feeding and Breeding, including Artificial Incubation.
An essential overview of Health and Diseases is presented by Dr Robert Johnson BVSc MACVSc (Feline Medicine) CertZooMed BA Grad Dip Asian Studies CMAVA.
Individual species chapters profile 31 species—the Eastern Long-necked, Rankin’s, Cann’s, Steindachner’s, Oblong, Northern Long-necked, Arnhem Land Long-necked, Broad-shelled, Macquarie River, Brisbane River, Clarence River, Emmott’s, Fraser Island Short-necked, Hunter River, Krefft’s, Macleay River, Sydney Basin, North-western Red-faced, Victoria River, Northern Yellow-faced, Jardine River, Worrell’s, Southern Snapping, Northern Snapping, Irwin’s, Bell’s, Saw-shelled, Southern Saw-shelled or Dorse’s, Fitzroy River, Mary River and Pig-nosed Turtles.
Within each species chapter, information is presented on Description, In the Wild, Housing, Diet, Breeding, Ease of Keeping, and Availability and Distribution Maps.
The book is completed with a Glossary, Herpetological Societies, Wildlife Societies and References.
Please direct any enquiries directly to me at Scott_eipper@hotmail.com
]]>Original post by blwfrog — 2012-08-27 14:52:22 GMT
i was wondering if aney one could tell me how to bread american bullfrogs
]]>Original post by ohernz — 2012-07-31 10:28:30 GMT
I am not a frog guy. but I live in Miami and Greenhouse Frogs are very common in my backyard, so I've been thinking about catching a couple of them and keeping them...I haven't been able to find any info on Greenhouse Frog care...does anybody keep Greenhouse Frogs? Any advice? Thanks
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Sed et serpens erat callidior cunctis animantibus terrae quae fecerat Dominus Deus...