Reply by PHFaust — 2012-02-02 03:51:26 GMT

Not sure what species you are looking at since pet store names can vary. Check this link to see if there is something that will help.
WCT Care Sheet

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Cindy Steinle
PHFaust
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Reply by jgturtlesHZI — 2011-07-07 04:50:00 GMT

Spotted turtles naturally coexist with many other species of Emydid turtles in the wild. The most common species associated with habitats that also support Spotteds are Painted, Musk, Mud, N.A. Wood, Bog, Blanding's, Yellow-belly, Box, and Snapping. Though dependent on how much space you are planning on providing, on account of the large sizes attained I would not suggest creating a mixed species environment with Wood, Yellow-belly, or Snapping. In addition, these three turtles also prefer to move between various water bodies of various depths. One must also take into account aggression that may be shown by Wood (primarily males) and Snapping. Due to their status as a highly protected and ever-declining species, not to mention the extremely high price tag for a captive-bred specimen (where legal), I don't recommend thinking about a Bog either. Temperate dwelling foreign species that if bought captive-bred may do well in a mixed-species environment with Spotted's are Reeve's, Japanese pond, European pond, and Caspian pond. Research all species and find those that are captive bred. Think about how much space you have, what species you would be able to accomodate the best, and the temperament of the species towards cohabitants. Remember, because many of the species that naturally cohabitate with Spotteds are subject to the same pressure of habitat loss and degradation, always buy captive-bred individuals. Good luck!

Reply by jgturtlesHZI — 2011-07-04 23:26:40 GMT

Although turtle eggs may be viable up to a certain amount of time in water, they will always sink to the bottom due to the yolk and amnion being denser than the surrounding water, if the eggs are indeed viable. In addition, once placing in an incubator, a viable egg will always develop a chalky white appearance once the embryo attaches to the pinnacle of the egg and chemical exchange begins. Although the whole egg may not turn this chalky white, at least some portion of it will, deeming the egg viable. Even an non-viable egg can retain internal pressure for several months giving it a full appearance and leading one to think it's viable. However this rigidity in the egg is often kept although the egg is not viable due to the inner contents condensing and hardening much like that of a boiled egg. Hope this helps!

Reply by paulcschmidt — 2011-06-25 12:41:17 GMT

Thanks. I am trying to incubate them. It has been a month now. One egg is collapsing, so I assume it is no good. The other egg remains hard, so I think it may be a good one.

Reply by brhaco — 2011-06-24 21:15:31 GMT

Go ahead and try incubating them-turtle eggs can actually survive several hours immersed in some cases.
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Brad Chambers
WWW.HCU-TX.ORG

Boas, Pythons, Colubrids, Tortoises and Turtles

Reply by Tony D — 2011-04-04 13:23:45 GMT

Is it just me or is the *HOT TOPIC* designation more often than not the kiss of death?
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Reply by tsmik2 — 2011-02-03 10:31:54 GMT

Yea I got plans for another pond in my yard this spring. We got 36 inches of snow on ground right now and its 6 degrees

Reply by curtis9980 — 2011-02-01 18:22:57 GMT

I would love to have a bog turtle myself. And I feel your pain. I am so ready for the spring. My construction on my new enclosure and pond was stalled with sleet and a week below freezing.

Reply by curtis9980 — 2011-01-31 02:36:25 GMT

Thanks, Cindy.

Reply by PHFaust — 2011-01-23 15:56:27 GMT

So sorry to hear this.
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Reply by Megalon — 2011-01-19 01:37:00 GMT

If the eggs weren't submerged for too long, there's a chance that they'll hatch. If they were underwater all day, go ahead and toss them, they're toast.
I keep my pair of spotteds in a tank that I have set up with 2/3 water, 1/3 land. I did this by simply siliconing a piece of plexiglass (.125 thickness) at about a 60° angle. I added some silicone strips side to side for traction, and mix plain, organic potting soil with ground coconut husks, about 50/50. This makes it easier for Parker to dig her nests, and keeps the substrate humid enough. A thin layer of sand can be added, to help locate nests, or a piece of driftwood works, too, as she always backs right up to it to lay. That's just my personal experience and setup, you'll hear plenty of other methods that have worked for other people.
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Reply by tsmik2 — 2010-12-22 04:53:01 GMT

I dont believe you can tell by color at birth. In my experiences I have had lighter looking yearlings that seemed to turn into males over a short period of time around the three year mark. I generally just wait until that time frame and see what starts to look like a male and what does not.

Reply by JSKAHN — 2010-12-20 21:56:26 GMT

Why do you ask?
Joe

Reply by paul419 — 2010-12-19 07:08:31 GMT

did you get this for $400 shipped?

Reply by curtis9980 — 2010-12-18 05:18:56 GMT

I don't know about being sexed by color so young, but they could be sexed by the breeder if they are incubating at the specific temperature to get either male or female, and then keep track. For instance, I ordered a female from my breeder, and she knew it was female from the temp she incubated that clutch at.

Reply by jskahn — 2010-12-17 22:34:30 GMT

Thanks for the answer.I ordered 1.2 yearlings.Then I was told, by someone, that they can't be sexed at that age.

Reply by gila91 — 2010-12-17 22:08:52 GMT

>>My understanding is that they are sexable at birth. Males have a black face and females have a light face. This was told to me by the breeder where I got mine, but I've never independantly verified this information.

It proved correct with the animals I have.

Reply by gila91 — 2010-12-17 22:08:01 GMT

My understanding is that they are sexable at birth. Males have a black face and females have a light face. This was told to me by the breeder where I got mine, but I've never independantly verified this information.

Reply by curtis9980 — 2011-01-17 04:00:37 GMT

Thanks, Will. Yes, it did heal up pretty quickly. Thanks for your reply.

Reply by willstill — 2011-01-13 20:07:39 GMT

Hi,

I have seen that many times with spotteds in group situations. The skin was likely scraped during group feeding. When that occured in my colony in the past (I no longer keep them) I soaked the affected individual in a mild water/peroxide solution (just enough to make the wound fiz) daily until healing began. As long as they have a hot basking site, it will heal quickly. No worries. good luck.

Will

Reply by curtis9980 — 2010-12-31 20:16:19 GMT

I just thought I would give an update in case someone with the same issue found this thread later on. It seems her eye is clearing up. I didn't do anything to it; she wouldn' let me touch her head. But upon close examination, it seemed it was the skin around her eye that had peeled away or something. My only guess is it happened in a fight over a worm or something.

But it is darkening. Oh, I did do a water change and kept her in a bowl out of the water overnight one night.

Reply by curtis9980 — 2010-12-22 23:20:08 GMT

np