Reply by MaryBergen — 2026-02-28 01:38:42 GMT

It's frustrating when things stagnate. I understand the coding hurdle. Sometimes a fresh perspective can help. Have you tried something completely different, like a quick break to play (( some game )) edited by kingsnake) It's a surprisingly engaging way to reset your mind. Perhaps inspiration will strike after navigating those endless slopes. Don't give up!

Edited on March 5, 2026 at 12:52:09 by kingsnakejon.

Reply by Randall_Turner — 2025-12-05 19:09:18 GMT

The times I've used heat cable I found it to be too variable along the length to feel it was a good option.

I still use heat tape, in conjuction with other heat sources.

I have implemented using ultratherm heat mats where they can be used, since they have a lower max temp.

I'd be interested to see a break down of heat tape related incidents, and how frequently the heat tape was used properly.

I cringe any time I see it used where tubs ride directly on top of the heat tape.
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Reptiles Make The World Go Round.

Reply by Randall_Turner — 2026-08-18 00:07:46 GMT

Wonder how I missed this post all this time.

I'm curious to see how they've held up, and what cases are you using for these?

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Reptiles Make The World Go Round.

Reply by markg — 2020-02-24 06:58:56 GMT

I hear you. Showcase Cages are HDPE or similar in properties anyway, and they last forever. You can kick them, bump them, whatever with no damage. More difficult to keep warm if in a cold room compared to the closed-cell PVC cages, but that can be dealt with.

Reply by markg — 2018-11-05 19:13:18 GMT

For heat control, it will depend somewhat on the type of heater. For all non-light-emitting heaters, a proportional controller is best. Those are available at herp supply dealers such as Reptile Basics Inc and the Bean Farm.

Type of heater depends on the reptile/amphibian needs. I think ceramic heat emitters are superb but for these animals (snakes especially), the emitter must not be able to be touched by the animal. Larger areas can use a radiant heat panel instead - at least the surface does not get as hot. RBI and the Bean Farm have those too.

Water temp control - you already know about that as a fish keeper. I still used a proportional controller for an aquarium heater on my turtle tank. I set the aquarium heater to about 82 just so it would stay ON, then I set the proportional controller at 80 to keep the water at 80. Much tighter control than the aquarium heater itself, and since you don't cycle the aquarium heater switch, they actually can last longer.

Misters are available (e.g. mist king).

Reply by Pituophis — 2018-12-02 20:05:40 GMT

>>Hello all
>>
>>Looking to set up some stackable cages and found the web site showcasecages.com. Cages look awesome. I was wondering if anyone has any experiences with these cages because I do have one major concern. I am worried about adequate ventilation with the cages being stack on top of one another. Any insight from those who have experiences with these cages is greatly appreciated
>>
>>Thanks

I'm afraid I have no experience with them, but you're right, they do look awesome. Now I have cage envy...
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Pituophis

Reply by markg — 2018-09-26 17:31:39 GMT

Not sure of what reptiles you intend to keep in plastic enclosures that require much airflow..

My comment is that although the cages are quite pricey when one includes shipping costs, they will last forever and ever. Really tough cages. The recessed area for a heat pad is a nice feature. The cages look very attractive in person, too. Doors are not flimsy at all. All in all a very solid cage.

You can always drill holes and bolt-on mesh for more ventilation, but I am not sure that more is ever needed unless keeping torts or chameleons. But then, if keeping torts or chameleons, this is probably not the caging route you want to go with.

Reply by RinL — 2018-09-19 19:59:24 GMT

i have two of their cages. excellent quality . they are stacked and i have had no problems with air flow. i don't have lights on them. i guess lights might restrict air flow somewhat but i have had no problems with them. easy to clean

Reply by Drdan1 — 2018-02-21 20:16:18 GMT

Hey Mark, thanks for the input!

You're correct; I noticed the hot top of the terrarium in the winter when the room was a bit cool. It wasn't a real concern, as it wasn't too hot, but I wanted to prevent it from happening on my newest terrarium.

I'm using Vivexotic Viva aluminum ventilation rails, which have built in ventilation which is not seen by looking at the terrarium. It allows for a very elegant terrarium. They're made by Hagen, and unfortunately not available outside England. Google it and you'll see what I mean. A reptile afficionado from the U.K. is sending them to me here in Italy.

I may just place a silicone rubber hot pot pad between the reptile radiant panel and the top of the terrarium. It should insulate really well.

Best wishes, and thanks again!

Dan

Reply by markg — 2018-02-21 06:12:33 GMT

How hot does the top of the panel get?

In my experience, what you describe - some heat escaping out the top of the panel - is only a problem when the room is very cool and you want the temp in the cage to be warmer. During warmer weather, it is less of an issue. And IMO, it is not really that much of an issue. Too much ventilation probably affects the cage temps more.

Simply adding something to the top of the cage might help. Like a blanket, or a piece of plywood, or foam sheet. Then, reduce any cage ventilation - cover up large vents.

This way in summer, you can remove the covers.

Or else lower the panel inside the cage. Like, put a piece of 3/4 inch plywood between the top of the panel and cage ceiling.

Honestly, reducing ventilation is the 1st thing to do, then see how much that helps in keeping the inside warmer. I do not think temp issues are greatly affected by some heat coming out the panel top.

Reply by Randall_Turner — 2018-02-13 18:02:17 GMT

no post.
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Reptiles Make The World Go Round.

Reply by Drdan1 — 2018-02-13 04:29:36 GMT

Perfect Randall! Thank you very much

Reply by Randall_Turner — 2018-02-12 22:27:42 GMT

The easiest way I measure for doors is from the inside of the top (deep rail) to the top of the bottom rail and subtract a mm or 2. For width measure the entire width of the enclosure opening, divide by 2 and add an inch or so to each doors width.
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Reptiles Make The World Go Round.

Reply by Drdan1 — 2018-01-30 04:51:50 GMT

Thanks Mark. I will be using bilaminated plywood, and it will be well sealed. I am ordering Vivexotic Viva Aluminum Ventilation Rails which have hidden vents that completely address the aeration of the terrarium, and looks very sleek. The bottom rail is almost 4" high, allowing for a nice layer of aspen.

Reply by Drdan1 — 2018-01-30 04:48:05 GMT

Thanks, and I will post some photos once I've completed the terrarium.

Reply by markg — 2018-01-24 22:02:52 GMT

For a brooksi, which is a good-sized colubrid as an adult, the radiant heat panel is excellent as you know. This is especially true when using a wood cage with a wood floor. A ceramic heat bulb is also effective in the same way, but you need a bulb guard for that if inside the cage. I see bulb guards avail in the UK. You can always make your own, but that is a pain.

If the cage floor is glass, then you could use a heat mat instead and put it under the cage - either taped or glued directly to the glass beneath the cage. The temperature controller probe would go right on the heat mat, secured underneath it.

If the cage floor is a composite material (aka particle board or melamine) and is thin enough, you could still attach a heat mat underneath if the ambient room temp is not too cold.

If the cage floor is wood or composite and is thick, what you do is cut a rectangle a bit larger than the heat mat, then silicon a piece of glass or expanded PVC plastic on top of the cutout. Then put your heat mat under that.

Reply by Randall_Turner — 2018-01-23 17:07:36 GMT

Sorry to see you didn't get any input on your setup, the unfortunate downside to the forums slowing drastically over the years. I'd like to see your setup once completed if you feel so inclined so share some photos of it.
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Reptiles Make The World Go Round.

Reply by Drdan1 — 2018-01-22 19:30:23 GMT

I'm going to go with a Habistat Reptile Radiator (75 watt) that is available in Italy. Thanks.

Reply by Drdan1 — 2018-01-21 06:29:08 GMT

I'd like to add that the terrarium's thickness is a bit over 1/2", so the aforementioned heating pad could be placed under the terrarium, as long as I attached "feet" under the setup to provide for an airspace.

Thanks again, and very interested in getting advice from the pros!

Reply by Randall_Turner — 2017-12-13 20:15:12 GMT

I actually attached a handful of radiant heat panels to glass tops I had cut for exo terras, so it is pretty easy to do. I drilled the attachment holes with glass bits and used bolts and wingnuts to hold it in place. Now with that said, I don't think I'd want to do that in a jewelry display case as I don't know what type of glass is used (probably standard plate glass but still). I would probably instead build a support structure to attach the panel to.

Another option would be to look at kane heat mats.
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Reptiles Make The World Go Round.

Reply by markg — 2017-12-08 23:31:33 GMT

What kind of snake?

Most species do not need much airflow, as most species spend much of their lives in or under cover. A few holes in the back plus occasional opening of the doors is probably enough.

More important here is how to heat it and maintain the proper humidity range for the type of snake you have.

If the top is glass, then you can't really use overhead heat like a radiant heat panel unless you can secure it well, and I do not know how on glass. Maybe secure it to a piece of plywood then silicon that to the glass top? Just a thought if you have a thicker animal like a python/boa. Otherwise, heat pads on the bottom are the most straightforward approach. Use a temperature controller because glass can get hot.

Another idea is to look online for aquarium backdrops. There are some really nice ones out there that can make this cage look wicked, provide some insulation for heat and give the snake some security.

Sounds like you can have a nice looking cage. Good luck on the setup.

Reply by markg — 2017-05-19 21:56:06 GMT

I place the probe (dangle it) about 8 inches above the cage floor just off to the side of the RHP. You will have to experiment with the thermostat setting. Heat panels radiate heat downwards, so air temperature is not always indicative of how much a snake below the heat panel can warm up to. Obviously, you need some limit. I set the limit to 84, and I find that works well.

I use a wood platform to allow the boa to be about 8 inches below the heat panel. The platform is larger in area than the heat panel. The boa moves around on the platform according to its needs, or goes below it if wanting cooler temps. Works quite well. I find that boas like to sit elevated on a platform much of the time. Boas like grainy wood surfaces too, more than paper. They like texture.

During times of lower room humidity, I put a plastic tray on the platform filled with wet cypress mulch.

Reply by Westicles — 2017-04-15 21:57:08 GMT

Thanks markg. If I installed it on the underside of the lid, where exactly would the thermostat probe go?

Reply by markg — 2017-04-15 03:48:43 GMT

Radiant heat panel is the best and safest. Yes they are costly, but like any good tool , once you have it you will wonder how you went w/o it. Makes keeping a boa easier. Really easy to control the temp with any herp-related controller.

Reply by joann42 — 2017-07-18 18:19:53 GMT

Okay thanks..

Reply by markg — 2017-03-03 20:46:21 GMT

For non-light-emitting heaters (RHPs, ceramic heat emitters, heat mats, heat tape) - pulse or dimming does not matter, either are well-suited.

A dimming controller is only really necessary when you want proportional control with a light bulb. This way, the light bulb dims as the power to it changes. Otherwise the light would "pulse" - blink on and off - which is annoying. As stated, you can use dimming on any heater. So get a dimming controller if you think you might use it for a light bulb someday.

(Dimming does blink on and off, but faster than your eye can discern. Pulse blinks on and off but more slowly.)

Reply by markg — 2017-02-27 22:35:05 GMT

In my opinion (well, fact really), the effectiveness of back-heated racks is compromised when the room temps are under 72 deg. Some colubrids would do fine with that, but boas/pythons should use belly heat if room temps are in the low 70s or below.

Covering the rack front with insulating material (styrene foam sheet for example) might help alot during cooler temps. Use a thermostat however if doing this.

There are portable oil-filled room heaters available that work really well. You will be able to keep the room warm enough so that back heat is effective during the coldest times of the year.

Reply by Kyonarai — 2017-02-11 01:47:48 GMT

Our room is usually around 70 degrees F or higher. Sometimes up to 80. Is that decent?

Reply by markg — 2017-02-11 01:31:42 GMT

Back heat vs belly heat:

Belly heat allows the snakes to heat up even if the ambient temps in the room are quite low.

In most cases with baby snakes, back heat is just fine. It does not take much to heat a tiny snake. For larger snakes, back heat only works if the room is kept somewhat warm, or warm enough where the back heat can get the back part of the tub up to the required temps. Again, a snake with lots of mass (e.g. ball python) can use back heat only if the room temp is high enough.

Reply by Kyonarai — 2017-02-04 08:59:11 GMT

I was really lucky and found a good deal on someone reselling a heated rack and thermostat. It's back heated, and has 6 qrt tubs, but I figure I can either move into a bigger rack when my snakes are older, or just knock out some of the deviders and stick wider tubs in it as they grow. I was told that 6qrt tubs were a good fit for them right now, being babies.

I'm not sure how ideal the back heat is comoared to belly jeat, but I figure at the least there's less risk of burns.

Reply by markg — 2017-02-02 00:22:35 GMT

Don't hognose enter Texas? Maybe Eastern Texas.. so I doubt Texas temps are a problem ..anyway, you should have no problem with racks with belly heat.

The snakes will likely brumate in Winter anyway. I would cool them in Winter to 55 deg F. The rest of the year the belly heat should be enough.

Use a thermostat! Ask me if you need help choosing a thermostat. So many great ones out there.

Reply by markg — 2016-08-01 16:13:28 GMT

Thank you Randall! Welcome to the diy world, it is kind of addicting. I have more homegrown controllers than snakes at the moment.

You will have no problem putting together an ssr-based setup. I recommend RTD sensors if available instead of thermocouples. Thermocouples are awesome for ovens and such but RTD s are better for herp related temps.

Have fun.

Reply by Randall_Turner — 2016-06-16 01:14:07 GMT

I could be wrong, but I do believe it was just standard plate glass that I had them use. (don't remember it being anything else).
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Reptiles Make The World Go Round.

Reply by Randall_Turner — 2016-06-14 23:02:59 GMT

Rack of Reptiles (3) by Randall Turner Jr, on Flickr

Not the best photo, but it shows the exo terras from a few months back.
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Reptiles Make The World Go Round.

Reply by Randall_Turner — 2016-06-14 22:58:47 GMT

I got it in 1/4". Figured it wouldn't hurt to go overboard on the thickness. Although if I was to do it again I'd go thinner, to save some money. (I think it was around 70 bucks for all the glass I had them cut and polish).
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Reptiles Make The World Go Round.

Reply by markg — 2016-06-14 21:39:23 GMT

Last questions:

What thickness of glass did you use?

What type of glass - plate (aquarium), safety, tempered or laminated?

Reply by Randall_Turner — 2016-06-13 18:44:30 GMT

I had the glass cut at a local glass shop, had them polish the edges, and placed it onto the lip for the screen top. I then use spacers to make up the difference for the lock down tabs that hold the screen down. I drilled the glass with glass bits, and use wing nuts to hold the RHP in place. I wanted to make it easy to remove and adjust if I decided to use them for another animal species once the boas in them outgrow that particular sized enclosure.
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Reptiles Make The World Go Round.

Reply by markg — 2016-06-13 17:44:09 GMT

I have a few, they are pretty much the same deal. They work well but like any screen-topped cage, humidity will go right up and out, so best to cover the top depending on the species. Also, the glass doors are thin plate glass, so do not accidentally kick them.

Reply by markg — 2016-06-13 17:41:14 GMT

Hi Randall,
Regarding the glass you had cut, how did you install that - just laid it on the top frame and maybe added some silicon?

And for installing the RHP, did you silicon it to the glass or did you drill holes in the glass top, or did you silicon wood to the glass top and screw the panels into the wood?

BTW, I use alot of 10gal glass tanks for smaller snakes. I just get the regular screen tops one can find in pet stores, and I lay a 28 watt heat panel right on top. Works quite well. I still run heat tape under the cages but only use it during the cooler times of the year.

Reply by Randall_Turner — 2016-06-11 07:37:57 GMT

I don't have experience with the large ones, but I do use 1 24"x18"x12" and 2 18"x18"x12" for young boas. I had glass cut for the top, then I drilled and installed a radiant heat panel (28 watt Reptile Basics) wrapped the sides and back with reflectix insulation. They work like a charm with this set up.
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Reptiles Make The World Go Round.

Reply by lenrely — 2016-05-11 03:52:13 GMT

Thank you Mark, sage advice.

Reply by markg — 2016-05-10 18:00:50 GMT

Easy way: heat whole room to about 82 for colubrids. Actually works well for general keeping experience, even if it is limiting.

More complex way: Keep room at more of a "room temp" below 78 deg, then have a heater on each cage. This requires thermostats on cages - at least one tstat for a few cages, unless it is the exact same heater device, like a strip of heat tape, then do a whole row or two (do not exceed the wattage rating of the tstat - actually best to go no more than 70% of rated wattage = longer life).

Best way I know of:
Oil filled radiator room heater. Relatively inexpensive, heats very well and gently, does not cycle much, you can easily use a Johnson or Ranco thermostat as a backup thermostat in case of overtemp. That is how I would do it. Safe, easy. You could do exotics with that setup if you wanted.