3-4" for babies that are a couple months old is rather small...unless this is head to vent length, not total head to tail length. Most bearded dragons are 3-4" out of the egg (nose to tail length, or snout to tail length).

Anyway, for dragons under 4 months old, feed 2-3 times daily with insects no bigger than the space between the dragon's eyes. Feed as much insects as they can eat in a 5-10 minute period. Remove any uneaten insects (these can harm your dragon during the night while they sleep). FOr such small crickets (typically 1/8th to 1/4 inch in size but for your tiny dragons, I would go with pinhead to 1/8th inch) you can put the crickets in a small bowl or feeding dish high enough to keep the crickets from jumping out but low enough for your dragon to get into the bowl. Just put crickets into a bag or paper towel roll (with one end taped (cover the sticky side of the tape with something so the crickets don't just stick to it. A sheet of paper cut to fit around the end than tapped on works good) and pour some crickets into the bowl, give your dragon time to eat them, then pour more till it appears he isn't hungry anymore.

A bowl of freshly prepared greens can be left in the cage all day long, though very young dragons show little to no interest in greens at this point. Pouring the crickets ontop of the greens will help incourage the dragons to eat them (usually they grab some accidently and eventually realize the greens are good too. Chop greens very fine for baby dragons).

Also, dust the insects once a day with calcium and a multivitamine powder. Mist the dragons a couple times a day as well, to ensure they do not dehydrate.

It is also best to house dragons separately for several reasons. It ensures none are dominating the other, taking the best basking spots, eating the most food etc. It also prevents accidental tail and toe nips by cage mates (dragons are prone to bite anything small that moves, so a tail twitch or moving toe attracts their attention and they try and eat it, thinking it is a bug). Once they do get older, having mixed sexes can cause problems (females being bred too early, added stress, etc) The same sex, especially males, will fight, often severely injuring one or both dragons in the process. Two females may get along..but it isn't unusual for two females cagemates who have gotten along for years to suddenly turn on eachother. It is also difficult to monitor who eats how much, who is pooping regularly etc. Parasites and diseases are also more difficult to remove, or to even identfy which stool sample belonged to which dragon so you have to treat both for any parasites or diseases.


At such a young age, dragons grow so much there is little risk of them coming obese. Once they reach 14 months of age, they should be eating 90% greens with only a few insects a day or a couple insect meals a week.

Dragons who are under 4 months need to eat 90% insects, once they are over 4 months, more greens will be needed in the diet with insects subsequently reduced (4-8 months, 2 insect feedings, 8-14 months, one insect feeding a day. Greens all other times. 14 insects reduced to just a few a day (3-6 crickets) greens available all day, or greens every day, 1-2 feedings of crickets a week)

ALso make sure your basking spot is between 105-115F (babies like the extra heat), you have a good UVB light (repti-glo or repti sun 5.0 or higher), and the cool side of the tank is around 75F or room temperature. Warm side of the tank should be 85-90F.)

Don't use any loose substrates at this time, dragons should be at least 10" before switching to washed children's playsand (if you want to use sand). Non particulate substrates are best, as there is no chance of impaction due to injested particles. Papertowel, newsprint, plastic table clothe, non stick shelf liner, ceramic tiles (sealed) etc are all good non particulate substrates. Avoid any calcium based sands, crushed walnuts, wood chips or mulches, beddings used for small mammals (ie paper pulp products such as carefresh or yesterday's news), cat litters, corn cob, alalfa pellets etc. These are very dangerous for bearded dragons for a variety of reasons.

If you do want some colored sand (as washed playsand is rather drab looking) there is a new product out that is actually crushed granite. I think this is fine to use, but not 100% positive. I have to check this stuff again to see if the grains are sharp or rounded..if sharp they may irritate the lining of the stomach or intestines when injested. Remember there is always a risk of impaction with even washed play sand, just a much reduced risk compared to calcisands, crushed walnut etc.

[ Reply To This Message ] [ Subscribe to this Thread ] [ Hide Replies ]