One thing you need to check is temperature. Frillies like it hot and humid. Large cages are often a problem in both regards. I try to offer a hot spot of 100-105'F abd a cool spot in the 80-90 range. Frillies also like a gage that is vertically oriented.

For reference, my cages are 48H x 38W x 19D. Walls and back are 1/4" lexan covered with 1/4" cork tiles. The front is 1/4" lexan. The top is a screen that is pretty much seated up except for lights. I have a 100W SB UV lamp, 3, 26W 10.0 UVB lamps, a 60W heat emitter (night only) and 50W undertank heaters. That's 228W daytime and 110W night, and they hold heat in far better than a glass or screen cage. The hot spot is toward the top and they'll climb up and down to find the temp they want.

If frillies get too cold, they won't eat. They don't want a belly full of food during a cold night. It needs to be hot in the day and warm at hight, and then they will eat like pigs. When in doubt, throw heat at them.

Frillies will sometimes just not eat. Stress, handling or simply getting tired of the same old food will get to them. I offer mine crickets, silkworms, hornworms and king worms. Each one will have a favorite for a few weeks, and then suddenly loose interest. It's always a challenge to figure out who wants what at any point in time. Somewhere between 6 and 18 months, most of mine seem to loose all interest in crickets. Right now, my males like silkworms and the females like hornworms and nobody will touch king worms. It'll change.

[ Reply To This Message ] [ Subscribe to this Thread ] [ Hide Replies ]