I have been keeping/breeding/hatching/raising water dragons for over 15 years

Exposure to UVB allows the dragon to produce D3 which allows the dragon to use the calcium in its diet.

Most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous so I dust at almost every feeding with a phos.-free calcium powder.

I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene won't build up in the system like preformed vitamin A. Excess preformed vit. A can prevent the D3 from doing its job and lead to MBD.

I also dust with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder twice a month lightly.


I gutload and feed the insects a nutritious diet. The crickets get fed an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, etc.)

I feed the dragon the same greens and veggies and a little bit of fruit (apple, pear, berries, melon, etc.)

Appropriate temps. allow for proper digestion and thus play a part in nutrient absorption.

Its important to provide a water area that is big enough for the dragon to bathe in but not so deep that it might drown.

Nose/snout rubs, gout, MBD are some of the things that dragons are prone to. Aside from the nose rubs, proper husbandry will help to prevent the others.

Hope this helps!

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