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Southwestern Center for Herpetological Research
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RE: He seems a bit thin...

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Posted by: MimC85 at Sun Nov 16 09:45:53 2008  [ Report Abuse ] [ Email Message ] [ Show All Posts by MimC85 ]  
   

The basking site usually stays around 105'F or so with a 30" T5 UVB directed on the center of the cage.
As far as diet goes heís been getting a baby spring mix from the local organic market consisting of Red and Green Romaine, Green Oak, Red Leaf, Lollo Rosa, and Tango Lettuces, Green Chard, Mizuna, Arugula, Mache, Frisee, and Beet Tops everyday, with supplements of Peas, Carrots, Chick Peas, Lima Beans, and Green Beans Monday through Friday, and Cantaloupe, Peaches, Honeydew on Saturday. Then every once and a while he'll get a Commercial Rabbit feed that he canít get enough of. Oh and on Monday his food is sprinkled a Vitamin/Calcium Powder. Unfortunately Dandelions are not available at the moment or else he would be getting those too.



Well there a few red flags that come up which could be contributing to his failure to thrive and gain weight.

The first is the basking temps...Uros need a basking temp of 130degrees, 105 is way to cold for a uro. They are dependant on these high temps for digestion, and proper overal health. Low temps will result in poor digestion, poor overall health, and force the Uro to display abnormal behaviors (such as basking all day - uros are very active and a healthy uro should be bopping around the cage all day, bask for a few minutes then off a again). Increasing the temps to the proper levels will be essential for his long term health.

How far away is the Uro from the UVB bulb? Im not familiar with te T5 - what brand is it? Most UVB bulbs (save mercury vapors) require that the lizard be approx 12inches from the bulb in order to get the proper UVB. If the bulb is on top of the cage and he cant get close to it then its not doing its job.

The best way to achieve the proper basking temps and good UVB exposure is by using "stacked" hides. Uros are specific in their hide preferences - the hides should be low and secure, they should be low enough that they brush against his back when he stands, and secure enough that they can wedge themselves in. Because the hides are so low - using just one makes it difficult to get the proper temps/uvb. If you make several of these hides (i use paving stones and tiles glued together) and stack them on top of each other you provide a nice hot basking spot and many hide choices for the Uro.

The diet is lacking in some areas too - its good that you are providing a variety of greens, but a lot of the greens you are feeding are not very nutritional. Lettuces should never be used as they are very poor in nutrition. Romaine lettuce can be offered occasionally but definately shouldnt be a staple. I have never heard of Lolla and mazuna - so i cant say one way or the other. The salad should consist of one or more of the following staple veggies: collard greens, dandelion greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, endive, escarole or bok choy. You could probably top the salad with the ingredients you listed above, but the majority of the diet should consist of one of the above greens.

Another component of your uros diet should include seeds/beans/pellets etc. You can use millet seed, pretty bird finch pellet or rep-cal iguana pellets, and 10 bean soup mix (ground coarsely or finely - depending on your Uros size - i a coffee grinder). You can combine these ingredients in a dish and leave that in the cage at all times - this provides a lot of essential protein and other ingredients lacking in the veggies.

I suspect that with correct temps and UVB and a more complete, nutritional diet you will see weight gain in your Uro. They should b e stocky, solid little guys - definately not thin.

Check out www.deerfernfarms.com for GREAT uro care info.

Hope this helps
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1.1 Bearded Dragons
2.2 Leopard Geckos
1.0 Uromastyx (Mali)
1.1 Corn snakes
0.1 Mexican Black Kingsnake
1.0 Bairds Ratsnake
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1.1 Green Anoles
1.1 House Geckos
0.0.2 Flying Geckos
0.0.1 Red Eye Tree Frog


   

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