The 100W red bulb sounds about right. I just used an IR thermometer to measure the skin (and thus approximate body) temp on a few of my frillies. Their temps ranged from 85-94F. The 85 reading is a little low for my taste, but it's one of the shy females (#3) and she would rather hide than bask in the warmth. I need to direct more heat on her hiding spot. Your 80' reading sounds a little low if it's under the heat light. You would like the basking spot to be in the 95-105 range. If you provide a warm spot like this at one end of the tank, he can warm up there and then find just the right temp to hang out at. If you provide a proper heat gradient, there won't be any danger of cooking your little guy. If he's too hot he'll move to a colder spot. If you don't provide enough heat, he will suffer a variety of problems: poor growth, infections, not eating, listlessness regurgitation and eventually death.



An IR thermometer is one of the best investments you can make in keeping your frillie happy because it reads the animals temperature, which is really all that matters.



Lights on top if the cage are a problem when feeding, misting and watering. Been there, done that. When we had the 20L setups, I attached all the lights to the screen top. The florescent lamp was taped using packaging tape, and I drilled holes in the dome lights, at the rim, and used twist ties to secure them to the screen. This way I could carefully tilt up and slide back the top. Maybe you could suspend your lights so that you can slide the cover up for feeding.



As far as force feeding or flukers emergency care, I'll let you make your own decision. When I get a new lizard, I expect it will take a week or so before it feels safe and comfortable in it's new home, and that's puting it into a proven cage setup.



Mike

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