Cindy and Kelly are right on. Remember, keep the light low and don't tease feed. Here is what I posted in the past to help remember the tricks:

Feeding Problem Feeders

Here is what works for me for the most difficult feeders:

1) Assuming you have been feeding live mice...start with feeding a frozen thawed mouse thawed in very warm water(not scalding hot!). The body temps should be 100-105F and thoroughly thawed.

2) Timing is everything! Feed in a low light room at night with the rodent still damp (just tap it dry a bit).

3) The snake should be in an ambush position like under substrate with its snout out or in its hide box with the head facing out. Using feeding tongs, grabbing the hindquarters or tail, introduce the rodent towards the head of the snake. He/she should see it coming, but not in a threatening manner. What ever you do, do not touch the snake with the rodent or tease the snake by slapping it with the rodent. This will create a completely different response.

4) Slightly jiggle the rodent to give it a slight living movement. If the snake is "buying it" you should see rapid tongue flicks or half-drawn held out tongue movement. This is a good sign. Keep up the facade until he strikes it or losses interest and pulls back. If he pulls back place, leave him be for a few days or a week and repeat.

Some other points to keep in mind:
- don't try feeding a newly acquired snake immediately. Let them settle for at least seven days to relax.
- never slap the snake with the rodent because they will get defensive and make your task more difficult.
- try larger prey...really, sometimes they prefer an adult mouse when you think they should be eating a fuzzy.
- color sometimes matters. try black versus white rodents.
- never force feed.
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