What I meant about the wooden cage was in reference to treating for parasites. If, for example, you got them checked and found out they had coccidia, it would be nearly impossible to treat them while they were kept in a wooden cage. Coccidia is a huge pain to get rid of, and pretty much requires daily bleaching of the enclosure's surfaces which can't be done with wood.

As far as who can do the testing, I'd recommend calling around. Who knows - a herp vet might have turned up since last time you checked. Or maybe someone else would be willing to help out. Won't hurt to ask, right? Or maybe check a little further away. If an emergency happens and you HAVE TO have veterinary help, you'll need to know where the closest one is no matter how far away it is.

Sex can be checked visually, but usually only by someone with experience (or at the very least, several known examples to compare with). Personally I would separate them anyway. But as long as there are no signs of aggression, they should hopefully be OK. At the very first hints of aggression between them - including less obvious things like dominance over the food bowl - they need to be separated immediately or severe injury or death can result.
-----
Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.2 Saharan Uros (Joe, Arthur, and Hitch)
3.0 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, and Tank)
1.1 Ornate Uros (Scuttlebutt and Shazzbot)
1.2 Collared Lizards (Ripcord, Thiamine, and Riboflavin)
1.0 Green Anoles (Sprocket)
1.1 Housecats (Roscolux and Jenny)

[ Reply To This Message ] [ Subscribe to this Thread ] [ Show Entire Thread ]