Posted by:
NDokai
at Fri Mar 9 09:30:12 2012 [ Report Abuse ] [ Email Message ] [ Show All Posts by NDokai ]
http://www.uromastyx.org/comprehensive-care-sheet-t100.html
Here is a link to Richard Montanucci's care sheet. This year, We tried a brumation similar to what he used to do. I have been happy so far, but we don't know what effect it will have on breeding. We have also lost lizards in brumation. It is extremely frustrating. Sometimes it may be attributed to the method of brumation, sometimes it seems to be the phisical condition of the lizard, sometimes it is kind of a mystery. If you loose one or two out of a large group, the lizard in question may not have been in top condition going into brumation, which may have caused it to die. If it was 2 out of 4 that died, it could be either scenario. If you look at it like loosing 50% of the lizards, I would look carefully at how they were cooled. Although, regardless of sample size, if those two lizards were just not 100% ready to be cooled, they may have died regardless of the method of cooling. Of course, making sure they fast for several weeks prior to brumation is important. Part of the process that we tried this year was to let the basking lights come on for 2 hours a day, with a lower wattage bulb than we use durring the regular season. They can still come out and bask a little, to let their bodies resume more normal functions for a small part of the day. The rest of the time, the temperatures were cooler, and the lizards sought refuge. I think it worked well. Any way you look at it, brumation IS a big strain on the lizards. You have to weigh the risks and rewards. We have only had breeding success with males who have been brumated, but we have had females produce good eggs without being cooled. It is ultimately your call, wether or not to cool them. I hope this helps. I can't give you a definite fix, as we have not completely figured it out. All we can do is learn from our mistakes and try to improve every year.
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