All of those behaviors are normal for a very stressed out uro. They're not overly aggressive lizards at all, but when they're scared, they'll fight, just like anything else. Don't worry about the sex - it really doesn't matter. Might be male, might be female. Behavior and care are the same.

You've got to give it time to calm down. Every time it gets moved to a new environment (even if it's in the same cage), its whole world is turned upside down - it's terrified. So, how can you make it as stress free as possible?

Step one. Make sure it's in an appropriate cage. It needs to be large enough (minimum of 36" x 18", but larger is better). It needs to have appropriate temperatures throughout the cage: most of the cage around 100F, about a third of the cage around 85F, and a basking surface temperature around 120F or a little more. This needs to be accurate, so use digital and/or infrared thermometers. Make sure there are several low, snug hiding places it can cram itself into throughout the cage. It needs to feel safe, and can't do that if there's nowhere to hide. If it's in a good environment, the glass dancing will stop, or at least be minimized.

Step two. Is it eating? Make sure it has fresh food each day, including lots of dark leafy greens, shredded veggies like squash, parsnip, green beans, etc, and edible flowers like dandelions and nasturtiums. Don't add in the dry foods until you know it's eating well. Then you can add in seeds, lentils, and dry grasses. Do your daily food swap before the cage lights come on so you keep stress to a minimum. If it's not eating yet, be patient. It can take a while for it to calm down enough to feel like eating. A small, shallow water bowl might not be a bad idea until it starts eating regularly.

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Torey
Eugene, Oregon, USA
1.2 Saharan Uros (Joe, Arthur, and Hitch)
3.0 Mali Uros (Spike, Turtle, and Tank)
1.1 Ornate Uros (Scuttlebutt and Shazzbot)
1.2 Collared Lizards (Ripcord, Thiamine, and Riboflavin)
1.0 Green Anoles (Sprocket)
1.1 Housecats (Roscolux and Jenny)

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