I have always been fascinated with snakes that do not eat or do not eat live. So here are a few ideas I have tried or others.

Make sure the FT pinkie is warm but not so hot to cause harm.

Try to raise the temp on he snake slightly.

Paper bag instead of a deli cup, don't know why but it has worked.

Tease feed. I had some blood red crosses bred years ago and they would not eat. I tease fed them. I worked it to wiggling the pink. NOTE these and related tease/move assisted all depend on the temperament of the snake. I have a few 2011 hogs and they just seem to eat faster and don't miss feedings if I feed them by hand. I hold the FT pink in front of them while they are in their own tub. I don't know if it's the movement, my hand behind the pink (as the hogs clearly take interest in it) or the way I move it around. I have done this a number for baby hogs.

Keep 1 baby in it's own small shoe box on paper towels. With or without a hide. Then carefully drop in a pink. I had some yellow rat snakes that just did not like the move to a deli cup. And almost always ate in their own tub. I guess you could also try to place in a deli cup for a day or 2 and then feed. If you use a hide place the pink near the ONE opening.

You can also put in more than 1 pinkie. I often thaw my pinks and try to feed my troublesome hogs first. Place 2-4 pinks in their cage. Occasional seems to help.

This part relates to scenting.

Some people wash pinkies they will scent with ivory soap first. Scent is very important obviously. Something I have wanted to test is to scent FT pinks in a mouse cage, or old bedding. Maybe a little extra smell will help? can't hurt.

Last but not least is to have a few babies together. I have done this and I have seen this effect that feeding snakes seems to excite other snakes. I have not done this a lot to voice much of an opinion. But you do need a few feeding snakes and make sure they don't grab the same pinks or each other.



good luck
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Thanks for reading.

Tom



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