Well, it’s been nearly a year, but the memory is as fresh as if it were yesterday. My apologies for not getting this post up sooner. Between work and a baby at home, time is a bit tight! As I sit here, looking out my window at the snow falling, the memory of this trip sure brightens my day. Without further delay, here we go:
The Plan:
Jeff Hardwick would fly into Billings, Montana, where both Dell Despain and I live. Dell, Jeff and I would then make the 20-something-hour drive to southeastern Kansas, where we would stay at a hunting lodge/cattle ranch on the southern end of Flint Hills owned by Dell’s buddy Cody Rolf (Cody also owns a fishing lodge on the Bighorn River that Dell works at regularly). The ranch is a fairly extensive piece of property and spans across two counties. Once there, we would meet up with the legendary local, John Fraser. Also to join us for a few days each were the humble and enthusiastic Dave Niles, and long-time buddy and herping guru Matt Ingrasci. Our primary objective, obviously, was herping… and the species Lampropeltis triangulum was first and foremost in all of our minds. Yes, we had a plan! I also had a new camera, which I was dying to try out in the field.
Executing The Plan (AKA “The Drive”:
So, Jeff got in to Billings around noon on a Thursday in late April and he and Dell met me at my house in the early afternoon after packing up the rig for our trip. Having left work early that day, I managed to road cruise a subadult Bullsnake (Pituophis catenifer sayi) on my way home. That could only be a good omen! After releasing the Bullsnake, we hit the road. I’ll spare you most of the details, but it was a LONG drive with some of the heaviest rain I’ve seen. We stopped in Buffalo, Wyoming for dinner at a local Mexican joint. They had simply the BEST jalapeno poppers I’ve ever had. Ever. One more exciting feature of the drive was seeing my very first Virginia Opossum (Didelphis virginiana) along a deserted highway in south-central Nebraska, around 3:00 a.m., while both Dell and Jeff snoozed.
The Arrival / Day 1:
We finally arrived at the hunting lodge that would become our home/basecamp for the next week early the following day. Did I mention it had been a LONG drive? Well, it was. It made this:

all that much more inviting. Here are a few more views from the lodge:

It was unbelievable how moist and green everything was. Vastly different than the habitat here in Montana.


The deck at the lodge was the perfect place to sit in the evening with a drink and a cigar to contemplate the day's events and plan for the next day’s. Thunder storms rolled through each evening and were a spectacle to behold. The porch light was very attractive to a variety of large, heavy beetles that were a joy to throw a Dell. I think everyone joined in at one point or another.

Anyway, back to it… we unpacked and hit the field with lodge owner Cody as our guide. We had to stick close to the lodge, since we were awaiting Dave’s arrival, but we found some Scincella lateralis

and one of my personal favorites, the Great Plains Narrowmouth Toad (Gastrophryne olivacea)

This awesome male Ornate Box Turtle (Terrapene ornata) was out on the crawl at the rocky edge of Blackjack Oak woodland


This big Black Ratsnake (Pantherophis obsoletus), found along a stream on the ranch, was absolutely gorgeous

It was also a handful to photograph, as evidenced by Jeff’s use of gloves

Also found along the stream was this big, female Diamondback Watersnake (Nerodia rhombifer)

Between the biting and the odor, this was a difficult animal to photo, too.
There were a multitude of Cricket Frogs (Acris crepitans) along the streams and cattle tanks/ponds, too. They came in virtually every shade of tan, green, and rust. The sheer numbers of them were impressive.


Trying to catch them will make a guy do funny things. Here’s Dell assuming the position (Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dell)

Making the grab

Success!

We found a few HUGE Great Plains Skinks (Plestiodon obsoletus), too. FYI, they bite.

Then it was back to the lodge to find Dave, have dinner, and settle in for the evening. We also found ticks... LOTS OF TICKS! Big ticks, little ticks, and ticks so small you could hardly see them. We, none of us, had ever seen the numbers of ticks that were found during this trip. It was an absolute pleasure to finally meet Dave in person. That first night was spent talking milks, field herping, and enjoying various libations and cigars on the deck while a thunder storm raged outside.
Day 2: Meeting John
The next morning, we got up after a hard night’s sleep (us not having much the night before), we got up and prepared to hit the field. Following coffee, Dell, Jeff, Dave, Cody, and I headed to meet up with John Fraser and his good buddy Mike Puckett for a little Lampro-centered fun. Our first stop was a fallen/discarded sign at the edge of John and Mike’s town. John had seen a beautiful Speckled Kingsnake (Lampropeltis getula holbrooki) beneath it several days prior, and suspected that it may still be there. We were not disappointed!

One happy Dave:

One good-looking holbrooki

Next we hit a road cut that looked all too promising



This large, well-marked Prairie Kingsnake (Lampropeltis calligaster calligaster) was one of the first critters flipped.


Next up was this feisty little holbrooki


Here’s the dudes wrangling a critter:


I’d never seen them do a “head bob” before, but this little guy (and several others seen) did a performance that very much resembled the defensive head-bob of the sympatric Massassauga (Sistrurus catenatus tergiminus).


Then it was on to a new spot in a new county. One of the first animals flipped was this rugged-looking Red Milksnake (Lampropeltis triangulum syspila) – one of our primary targets for the trip.

Photo and cigar time:

Only a few minutes later, Dave flipped another syspila – his first! I’ve never seen such a happy and enthusiastic field herper. Dave was so excited his voice was cracking!



Tantilla planiceps, Flatheaded Snakes, were present in some numbers, too.


A few more holbrooki were seen


Black Ratsnake (Pantherophis obsoletus), seen here with Dell being a tough guy

Me being a tough guy with the same snake

And another syspila (with an out-of-focus noggin’)

The next day (Day 3), which was to be Dave’s last day with us, we headed north to a well-known locale. Cody wouldn’t be joining us again until later in the week as he had business appointments in both Wichita and Kansas City, plus family obligations to attend to. On the way up, one of us (who shall remain nameless) had to pee, as seems to happen during a car ride. We pulled into a sporting goods store’s parking lot, only to be greeted by this hanging in the window of the shop:

I figured, “What the hell, I need a new pair of rock-flipping gloves anyway, so I’ll just buy some and that should cover us.” No way, no how. Dave was mad…
Here are a few habitat shots (my ability to use the new camera is slightly improving at this point):







And for the animals found in the habitat
Red Milksnakes Lampropeltis tiangulum syspila o’plenty





















Worm Snakes (Carphophis vermis) are AWESOME!




Lined Snakes (Tropidoclonion lineatum) are oddly difficult to photograph


The Guys (Mike, Jeff, Dell, and John) photographing a milk shortly following Dave’s departure for the airport.

Day 4: More of the Ranch and John’s Farmstead
The following day, Dell, Jeff, and I spent the morning and afternoon exploring the ranch and vicinity. We were hoping to find some additional species, and that we did.

Various Nerodia







We also took time to photograph a number of herps around the lodge.
Box Turtle Comparison: Two species are found around the lodge

The Three-Toed Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina triguinis)
The Ornate Box Turtle (Terrapene ornate)

Also abundant were some brightly-colored Racerunners ( Aspidoscelis sexlineata) in a multitude of sizes



Dell working the camera:

Later in the afternoon, when John got off work, we picked him up and headed to his family’s farmstead property, located not terribly far away.
A sign seen on the way

The “$1 Beer” thing actually had us considering it… more on that later.
I’d hoped to see a large Coachwhip (Masticophis flagellum) sometime during the trip, having missed them in the past, and John indicated that the road to his property held a decent chance of us spotting one. Once again, John’s knowledge of all things “herp” shown through and we saw a large adult crossing the road in the distance ahead of us. Dell swerved to the road shoulder and we all jumped out. The snake promptly jetted off the road and up into some strubs. I’m sure seeing four grown men jumping up and down next to a bush is quite a sight from the highway, but we got the bugger down! Boy, what a trooper of an animal – it had numerous scars and healed injuries.


Scincella lateralis

A pond on John’s property:

Epic party/BBQ location

We hunted for pre-Columbian artifacts (another of John’s diverse interests)

An in situ shot of a Osage Copperhead (Agkistrodon contortrix phaeogaster)


Neat-o shots taken of the farmstead and barn


Day 5: Heading South with Matt and Fish for Dinner!
The plan for Day Five was to head out in search of syspila and Timber Rattlesnakes (Crotalus horridus) with the help of some tips from our buddy Chad Whitney (who posts here as “greatfuldead”). John couldn’t join us due to work obligations but informed us that Mike Puckett and John’s cousin Brad had taken the day off to go fishing and were planning to have us over for a fish fry that night. Very cool stuff and we would be back in time – no way in hell would we miss that! Matt Ingrasci, his girlfriend Katherine, and dog Trixie had arrived in the wee hour of the morning and would be joining us, too.

We drove south, though some oddly-named little towns that were full of friendly people (as most Kansans seem to be… sans the sporting goods store owner mentioned previously) toward the Oklahoma state line. Along the way, we found a number of Three-Toed Box Turtles ( Terrapene carolina triunguis

And a giant Cooter (Pseudemys concinna crossing the road.

Destination #1 was unfruitful (unless you count ticks… LOTS of ticks). Destination #2, however, was not only scenic, but we found a nice adult Osage Copperhead (Agkistrodon contortrix phaeogaster)… These things are awesome!
Unwashed/muddy




Washed!






Habitat shots


Matt is a photo guru (and has a wicked-cool beard)




Matt’s dog Trixie (AKA Trixicephalus)


Jeff also likes to take nice photos

Even Dell got in on the action

Shortly thereafter, we headed back to the lodge to get cleaned up for the fish fry! I can’t express how greatful we were to have these people take us in and treat us like family. The only thing we were asked to bring was beer (no problem!). The fish, Flathead Catfish ( Pylodictis olivaris) was absolutely delicious! I also had my first hushpuppies that evening, which were similarly delightful. Again, thanks to Mike & family, Brad, John’s wife Barb, and John’s mother, Mrs. Fraser, for hosting a group of snake-loving misfits for the evening. A good time was had by all!
Day 6: More Milk, Please
After a good night’s sleep with a belly full of beer, fried fish, and hushpuppies, we got up and had coffee with Cody, who had returned to herp with us again for the morning. The decision was made, however, to split up that day, with Dell riding along with Cody and exploring another portion of the ranch, while Jeff, Matt, Catherine, Trixie, and I would head one county south and try our luck for Lampropeltis in various forms.
Here’s a habitat shot of where we spent the morning

This big Prairie Kingsnake was one of the first flips of the morning

Followed shortly thereafter by Catherine’s FIRST EVER milk flip… and a good looking one at that!


We also happened across this little gem crossing the road

That evening, following Matt, Catherine, and Trixie’s departure, Dell, Jeff, and I met up once again with John to do a little road-cut herping

Jeff and John contemplating a freshly flipped Bullsnake (Pituophis catenifer sayi).

John giving us a good rostal scale/profile shot


We flipped a nice holbrooki with a lemon-yellow belly, too

Jeff photographing the above king

Another habitat shot

The sunset that night was pretty crazy – the sun was bright, glowing red-orange

Day 7: An “Interesting” Trip North
Day Seven would be our last day of herping as we had to make the long, arduous journey back to Montana early the following morning. With that in mind, Dell, Jeff, and I decided to head north, toward the northeast corner of the state, herping along the way. We knew that some attractive Red Milksnakes could be found along the eastern state line, so that was the path we would take.
Not long after heading north, we happened across this sight on a lightly-traveled back road

I didn’t take many photos this last day, and for a number of reasons. First and foremost is that most of the sites we visited had clearly been recently flipped by other herpers… other herpers who either don’t know or don’t care to put the rocks back as they were found. I’m not sure that I can convey the disappointment we three felt that day, after visiting site after site, some fairly “remote” (by standards of being within an hour of Kansas City), with rocks flipped over or slid down hillsides with an obvious apathy for the aesthetics, habitat, or other herpers. Damn it! Plenty of snakes were found, yes, but I didn’t photograph many of them or take many habitat shots. That’s not the Kansas I want to remember. I will use this as a platform of sorts – Please, if you hit the field, hit it gently! Put the rocks back, don’t leave your garbage, and collect more photos than specimens! Thanks.
Here are a couple of Speckled Kingsnake (Lampropeltis getula holbrooki) to not end that on such a negative note


A second reason for not taking many photos is that we spent a good portion of the late afternoon trying to rectify a flat tire. We had borrowed Dell’s wife’s vehicle for the trip, due to the space it afforded and its reasonable gas mileage. We limped into a town on a goofy “doughnut” tire looking for a shop to fix our flat. This NEEDED to be done, since we had to leave for home early the next morning and would no way, no how make it back to Montana on the doughnut. All of the tire shops were closed. Damn it! Luckily, we happened across a mechanic shop that was owned/operated by one hell of a good guy. He fixed up our tire, which took some work, and chatted about snakes with us all the while. As it turns out, he was modestly interested in them, himself.
Another holbrooki from that afternoon

By this time, we had missed a dinner engagement with John, Mike, and Brad. They had convinced us that dinner at the Prairie Nut Hut (see earlier photo) would be a good idea. Though we wouldn’t be able to get “$1 Beer” (it wasn’t Tuesday), we could gorge on burgers, bull nuts, and $3 beers. Despite missing dinner, we convinced them to come out to the lodge for a beer and BS session one last time before we headed out in the morning. Have I mentioned before that those are good guys? They are. All three of them.
Day 8: Big Drive Number Two
We roused early to get the rig loaded and get on our way. All packed up, we headed out. Our plan for the return trip was to head west, then north through Nebraska, South Dakota, and on to Wyoming and Montana. We did exactly those things, stopping in Hays, Kansas to eat at a killer Mexican food restaurant owned by Cody (in addition to ranching, outfitting hunting and fishing trips, and being a family man, Cody owns a number of well-known restaurants and chains).
We also stopped at a traditional spot for us. Here’s Dell doing the “Chubby Pickle”

A bit further north, in Nebraska, we made a few stops.

The habitat and a big storm

Another location, this time in Thomas County, Nebraska.

Hazards: yes, that’s a carpet of poison ivy.

But there are snakes!



After having dinner in Valentine, Nebraska (Cherry County), we continued our trip back to Montana. We drove straight on through the night, arriving home around 5:00 am. After picking the last dozen or so ticks off of me, it was bed time and the trip was officially over.

Hopefully you enjoyed reading this as much as I enjoyed reliving it. Thanks to all of my friends, old and new, who were part of making this trip awesome.





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-Cole

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