I brumate them by slowly reducing the amount of heat they receive, and eventually getting rid of the heat source and leaving them be. Temps in the 50's and 60's at its coolest

I think you are so indoctrinated in your way of understanding that you read over what me and FR have been saying and had already mentioned.. but you are reading right over it because you are so indoctrinated.

I guess you did not know about giving the snake choices in brumation as that is what I was writing about.

The first thing you said was "I" . You don't breed the snakes.YOU don't cool them! the snakes can do it by themselves withouit your help -if you can take yourself out of it. . What I was getting at is the snakes do not need a forced cooling. That is why I said "forced" cooling. Forced cooling periods is not good for them!W hat is good is giving them choices!

Put them in a cold room and keep the heat 'ON' one side ALL WINTER so the temp ranges are 50-80F. Leave the heat tape on all winter and feed the snakes all winter and they will brumate and cycle themselves. This is a good time to keep healthy weight on breeder females as well.

First is it is a lot healthier for the snakes and allow them choices. Forcing them to be cooled for two to three months is just nuts IMO and a concept from the 70's.

Second is, the snake might even breed when you don't expect them to. I get eggs year round. EVen in jan and feb.


How it works:
They sit on the cold side . I hit them with a temp gun and they are at 50F. I offer a mouse and they eat at this temp.. So then they move over to the warm side to digest their food. They may move back and forth from 80f to 70F and back 80f and then 65F ect..all to digest their bolus with different temps at different stages.


What do you think they do when they are finished digesting? That's right!. they move back to the coldest spot at 50F. why do suppose they do this? Because they want to conserve calories.

cont..

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