Hi guys, as an old timer, AGAIN. Its all about conditions. Eggs, do not have roots that absorb minerals, they indeed have a semi permeable layer, which allows the transfer of water.
In a study done at Dallas zoo, in the days of massive breeding interest, they worked on this subject. They found that under their conditions, eggs weighted the same at deposition as they did just before hatching. If those eggs absorbed too much water, it was shed before hatching(if conditions allowed).
In nature, eggs are normally somewhat caved in(dented) and there is good reason. In nature, there is a fair amount of temp fluctuation. Eggs absorb water based on temps.(ask about this is needed) So they have the ability to do so without popping if needed. I guess its easier to say, in nature, "normal" has a lower water level then in captivity. And that allows for more fluctuation of temps and internal fluid levels.
In captivity, allowing these type of eggs to "grow"(absorb water) is not actually beneficial and only limits the the eggs ability to use heat. Which leads to the debate about temps and egg health. Which when understood, its not the high temps that's a problem in captivity, its too much humidity AND high heat that stresses snake eggs. In the field, with shallow nesters, We commonly see hatching periods around a month from laying. With some in our outdoor ages taking 23 days.(colubrids) As a result of Dallas zoos work, I was instructed by Dave Barker, to build a room and toss them in the room and stop with all the horse poop. And he was right. I don't worry about temps, just give them larger mass and let it go. No need for sims, or this or that. But then, that takes away all the fun of needing this and that that you don't really need. No offense Gregg, SIMS are a wonderful product For helping those that do not understand amniote eggs. Which includes most keepers so its a very needed product.

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