At some point, you get your cards, now you have to play your hand. As a long time herp breeder, some 50 years plus, I do not put the entire ball of wax in what I do, They are the ones doing.
So you choose to not cool them. Which is fine, there are a few folks here that did not cool their hogs. They report success.
Photo period, hibernation, etc, can work or not work. It depends on the whole, not the part.
First, if your snakes are healthy and in condition(carry enough energy) They are doing to reproduce. Unless you stop them, too hot or too cold, stops them. As does not enough energy.
In nature its the same, the prey base predicts that years reproduction. Excessive hot(and dry) forces them to conserve, as does excessive cold(and associated lack of prey) The too hot, cold that stops them. Photo period is for plants, as plants are stuck on the surface and cannot move. Herps, move, in fact hognose spend 99% of their lives in total darkness. They shed in the ground, they breed in the ground, then nest in the ground, and for the most part they feed in the ground. They do come to the surface to move from site to site. To seek out prey in the summer and seek out mates in the fall. And a bit unusual for many snake species, here they mostly thermoregulate under the ground. Back to your situation. All you can do now is cross your fingers and not hinder what is already in action. Do not get them too hot or too cold. That range of mid seventies to high eighties seems to work and be a consensus, from what I have heard. I am new to hogs as well, so far, that has worked well. In my opinion, a hot spot of 100F is best if your cages allow that. Most smaller cages do not.

[ Reply To This Message ] [ Subscribe to this Thread ] [ Show Entire Thread ]