The problem with "research" is that you are reading regurgitated nonsense in many cases.

Lets discuss the stupid stuff that proliferates the internet and some books..

1. Feeding in the cage, or not:

You can feed it in its enclosure if you want, or not. No difference. The snake does not change its behavior if you feed it outside the cage or inside the cage.

A good reason to feed in a separate container:
It lets the snake eat undisturbed while you clean its cage. Now that is a good reason to do it.

Another possible good reason:
If you use wood shavings as a substrate in the cage, feeding in a separate container using a paper or shelf liner substrate might be a good thing to keep the snake from ingesting wood shavings.

Also, touching the snake with a snake hook first can sometimes make the snake realize that food may not be being offered. That is a much better approach if you want less of a chance of a strike due to hunger inside the cage.

2. Put a piece of your clothing inside the cage, or not:

Doesn't do a damn thing. Doesn't hurt anything, but doesn't do a damn thing for a kingsnake. A dog, yes. A kingsnake, no. Go ahead, try it. Watch your snake care less.

3. A set frequency of feeding:
Kings are in tune with seasonal changes. They may eat more during some parts of the year and less during others. The real way to feed a kingsnake: If it is actively looking for food, you can feed it. Feed it enough to keep it reasonably satisfied but not make it fat. Younger snakes may eat often. Get to know the rhythm of the snake's habits, then you can better adjust feeding. To start, try 2x a week for a young snake, then adjust down or up as needed. Kings can be very zealous eaters in Spring, and not want food during late Summer. Normal.

I forgot what else you mentioned, so I'll end it with this:
Some kingsnakes may stay nervous, some may calm down as they age, some may even bite as a feed response even when you have kept them for years. Some get super tame.

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