You can try several things based on what info you are providing (I, too, have struggled with the same issues when working with them). I might recommend a removable/portable shift box that you use as the primary hide boxes (perhaps one on each side of the cage). As your king gets used to hiding in these boxes, it will become quite easy to manage. By affixing a hinged door that can be closed with a long hook once the snake is inside,and, then a lasp that will allow you to secure the door and lock it, will make your life much easier. Once inside the box and the door is closed and secured, you can just remove the box from the cage so that you can go about maintaining the enclosure, cleaning water bowls, etc. Depending on what type of cage you are using, you might consider an external shift box. This will require some extra modifications as you will need to drill a hole into the side of the cage and using a piece of PVC pipe, you will then caulk this piece which will then run into the shift box; once inside, you can use a cap or something to properly restrain the snake (make sure you have a small "peep" hole into the shift box so that you know exactly where the king is when inside). Once again, this external shift box could actually be a hide area for your snake which it will quickly recognize and readily dart into when disturbed. The less you have to actually make contact with the snake the better....safety is always the number one priority.

Does that make any sense? If you have any questions just let me know.

Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center
Lake Forest, IL

>>I was told Carmichael may be of some help, but I'll take advice from anyone… I have three king cobras, all in the 12 foot range. Two are in front loaders, the other in a top and side loader. With the top, I can easily control him, coaxing him into the box so I can get in for maintenance. The other two, however, are a bit more challenging. They don’t go into the box voluntarily, so if I want them safely secured, I open the front end and use a hook to persuade them into the box, which is not easy. Although not the safest way of getting them in the box, that’s not my main concern. It takes a long time to get them to go in, and all the while, I know it stresses them out. I don’t like to use tongs, because with a 12 foot body, it can exert a lot of torque, so if I try to secure him, I have to use a lot of pressure, which I don’t want to do cause it may hurt him.
>>
>>What is the best way of securing these guys, quickly and, safely? I just don’t like the way I’m doing it.
-----
Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center at Elawa Farm
Lake Forest, IL

[ Reply To This Message ] [ Subscribe to this Thread ] [ Hide Replies ]