Each type has advantages and disadvantages as mentioned in the other replies.

When I first started in this hobby back in '94 I built my first rack. I used sterilite tubs with the lids. Most but not all of the tubs had holes drilled in the sides, not the front. The hot air that vents out of these holes goes into the shelf area. This helps to heat the air around the boxes. I found that I could run the flexwatt slightly lower and still maintain good temps. It seemed to be more efficient. I wanted to work with a variety of species, kings, milks, hognose, pits, rosy boas, etc. They have different temperature and humidity requirements. I could turn up the heat and then slide some of the boxes forward so they were actually sticking out of the rack a couple of inches. Those that needed higher temps were all the way in the shelf, over the tape, and those that needed lower temps were only partially on the tape. You can't do that with a lidless rack. Maintaining higher humidity is easier with the lids on. Less problems with sheds. I was also able to incubate eggs in a couple of boxes and not worry about something hatching out and crawling out of the box while I was at work.

I would suggest that if you use a rack with lids, get enough boxes to change out the rack 2-3X. Less loss of heat, higher humidity, mixed with urates and feces can get stinky real quick. I had enough boxes to change out the rack 3X.

I no longer use that rack but while I wanted to learn and get experience with as many species as possible, it was useful. I now use AP racks, sterilite boxes, no lids. 90% of my collection is balls. I keep a few boxes with holes drilled in them for the other species that require lower temps, lower humidity. I also keep them on the bottom shelf, no heat from a lower shelf this way. This setup is working fine so far.

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