Posted by:
Rtdunham
at Fri Feb 24 14:53:39 2006 [ Email Message ] [ Show All Posts by Rtdunham ]
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the feedback. I'd definitely consider this a brumation period, with temps sometimes to 60, presumably IN the 60s most of the winter, and feedings only 2-3 times per month. Not clear about your light period...i suspect your apt has windows so in summer there's longer periodicity, and if i understand you correctly you're saying in the winter the sun sets before (or by) 6 and you turn your lights off then, so that may--if i'm interpreting correctly--also mean less light in winter than summer?
I found it interesting that you begin feeding especially heavy only AFTER a couple copulations. I've always thought it was the aggressive feeding BEFORE cop began that either a) triggers ovulation or b) is a result of it. In either case, i start my aggressive feeding a week or two out of brumation. It's interesting that yours start breeding without that stimulus. As i said earlier, always something new to learn!
Terry
>>Been doing the same thing for over 10 years simply because my apt. is too small to "give up an area" for cooling. My apt. may get in the 50's occasionally, but rarely goes below 60. I offer food about 2-3 times a month during the cold weather season. I do however maintain a strict photo-period. When the sun sets outside, all my lights go out by 6 p.m. , and so on, save for one desk lamp in main room area. I'm so used to this it has become normal routine.
>>The kitchen lights are out also by 6 p.m. Start putting male and females together in April. If female not receptive, I'll try again in a few days. My campbells are usually first to go, while the hondos take a while. They seem more inclined in May, as are my sinaloans. After copulation observed several times, females get fed more often.
>>Only my ball pythons and spotted have bottom heat, controlled by an on-off thermostat and are fed weekly.
>>
>>This works well for me, so why change things.
>>
>>Mike
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