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RE: My dilemma.......... continued (long

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Posted by: chris_harper2 at Thu Nov 23 09:09:54 2006   [ Email Message ] [ Show All Posts by chris_harper2 ]  
   

As for a divider, I don't think I'd want a slot or recess in the floor, either, so using some kind of molding on the front & back supports to hold a divider sounds best to me... The only reasons I thought about a divider is (1) if I were to keep 2 snakes in one cage, making it easier to separate them for feeding, (2) if for some reason or another, on down the road, I needed the cage for 2 smaller snakes.



If you do go the Sintra route you can just use strips of leftover material or even use PVC corner angle. You could even use the PVC corner angle to cover up the exposed edges of the cage to give it a clean look. I do think that if you're considering a divider for the reasons you listed you might as well make it easier to use for safety reasons. Maybe even use it for offering food so the snake never associates the door opening with food coming in.



What I was talking about on the removable end wall would be more work as far as inserting/removing a divider but I thought it would give it more of a clean, professional look versus using a dowel or pin as a stop.



I think the removable dowels could be made to look really slick. Sort of like some of the wedged joints you see in craftsman furniture.



Minimum cage size: 10 x 3 x 2 (L x W x H)



Maximum cage size: 14 x 4 x 2.5



Three feet deep (width) is a bit deep but I feel it’s important for a large burm to be able to coil comfortably. 2 ½ feet would be tight for a 16-footer or above to coil within.




I do believe that a 3' deep cage can be used although it is beyond my personal comfort zone. One thing to keep in mind it how large of a front opening you'll have. You'll want upper and lower lips for support and for something to attach your modular face frame to. I would say that 2.5" is an absolute minimum and even that is probably not enough. Subtract that and the thickness of the floor and ceiling and you're losing at least 6" of space. In a 24" tall cage that's leaving you with an 18" opening to fit through to get to that stubborn pile of seemingly welded on burmese urates in the back corner.



That's a long-winded way of saying that I strongly believe that as a cage gets deeper, it should also get taller. I think it makes it safer and easier to clean for the keeper.
-----
Current snakes:



0.0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Java locale (green)



1.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Jave local (green)



2.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Seleyar locale (all black)



1.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Celebes locale (Black & Tan)


   

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