Posted by:
Jonathan_Brady
at Wed Mar 28 16:15:40 2007 [ Email Message ] [ Show All Posts by Jonathan_Brady ]
If you go w/ a ball python, you have color and pattern mutation options out the wazzoo. I don't keep up w/ them, but there are tons and I'm sure that by now, some of them are as affordable if not more affordable than boa morphs. Also, if you do decide to go w/ a ball, do not, under any circumstance buy an import. Just don't. One of the benefits to buying a color or pattern mutation is that you know it's a CBB (captive born and bred) animal unless some unscrupulous dealer is trying to pass off an import that falls within the normal variability range of appearance as a morph of some sort. Those are easy to spot because if they're a good salesman, you'll get that "too good to be true" feeling (REAL, new mutations cost money - lots of it - and the animal is an import which you are going to keep away from anyway) or if they're a bad salesman, they'll say something that includes the word "could" in the phrase. As for ease of feeding, a lot of the balls bad reputation stems from the numerous import animals and the fact that they like to fast during breeding season. No biggie. I still haven't heard of a ball python starving itself to death during breeding and again, you're NOT going to buy an import  Temperament, they range. Some are so paranoid and worried that they stay balled up when you pick them up. I've actually seen a few that are nippy, but the majority (in my opinion w/ limited experience) seem to fall somewhere in the middle and are curious, active creatures that hesitate to bite. Size wise, they're easy to manage.
As for boas, again, color and pattern mutations are out there and are affordable. Same thing here, do NOT buy an import if you're unfamiliar w/ the care of an import. Size wise, BCI CAN get big, but they usually don't get too large unless you buy a female and feed the begeesus out of it. If you buy a baby (which I'd recommend no matter which species you purchase), your experience will grow with the animal so don't worry about the end size. Temperament wise, boas are just like balls, some are reclusive and don't like to be bothered, some are nasty, but the majority are in the middle. Feeding wise, boas are known to eat, and eat well for the most part. You also have the option of buying an animal that is a "dwarf" species or island locality. These are BCI that generally do not attain sizes greater than 6-7 feet. Some stay as small as 3.5 feet. These will generally cost a little more than a regular "Colombian" and also have various color and pattern morphs that can put them right out of the price range of a first time buyer. Before you buy one of these, ask about temperament (or even better, do your research before you go to the show) because some are known to be pretty nippy.
No matter which way you go, RESEARCH, RESEARCH, RESEARCH the species before you buy it. You'll want to know the proper feeding regimen, minimum cage size, heat and humidity goals, etc, before you get it home. Have the habitat "snake ready" before you leave for the show. Thankfully, balls and boas can both thrive in a similar environment so you won't have to make a decision on which species before you go to the show. And although you'll probably get a 100% healthy animal, take it to a qualified reptile vet after purchasing it just for a wellness exam and fecal smear.
There is more information on the net than you could possibly need or want pertaining to both species. I'd say that a good portion of it is pretty worthless. But, a lot of it is great information. General guidelines for both species as far as keeping goes like this:
Up to a year old, feed one rodent that is equivalent to the girth of the snake every 10-14 days (males on a more spaced out regimen than females). I'd say about 5-7 days after the lump disappears would be the day to feed again. Ask the dealer you buy from if the animal is eating "frozen/thawed" rodents yet. If not, don't necessarily not buy the animal, conversion to F/T can be easy if you do it right (lots of info on the net). In my opinion, rats are preferable to mice nutrionally. I try to get my new snakes on F/T rats ASAP.
Temperatures from 78-90 (have a temperature gradient, or "cool" and "warm" side within this range) are good and you'll want to have enough space in the enclosure for the snake to pick out a good spot. Also, BUY A TEMPERATURE GUN!!!! They're cheap and are probably the single most valuable tool you can own w/ respect to keeping snakes. You may also want to buy a small snake hook, just in case you need it.
Humidity should be around 60%. Depending on the type of enclosure you purchase, you may need to mist with a water bottle and sprayer attachment 3 times a day, never, or somewhere in between. Humidity is just as important to a snakes health as feeding, temperatures, and a clean bill of health.
Your enclosure can be as scarcely decorated as a water bowl and the snake, or it can be incredibly elaborate. Whatever you prefer.
Leave your new snake alone for the first week or so. Only disturbing it to clean the cage and/or replace the water. This adjustment period will do 2 things. It will lower the stress of your animal allowing it to acclomate faster and test your ability to do the right thing. Gradually increase your interaction over the next few weeks to your desired level. If the snake starts refusing food, go back to square one.
Anyway, this is probably more than you wanted to know but once in a while I get the itch to contribute to the forum. So, now that I've scratched the itch I'll stop typing!! -Jonathan
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Jonathan Brady
"Sarcasm is angers ugly cousin" -Dr. Buddy Rydell (Jack Nicholson) in "Anger Management".
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you have SO many options it's ridiculous - Jonathan_Brady, Wed Mar 28 16:15:40 2007
