Posted by:
FireStorm
at Tue Jun 19 22:20:46 2007 [ Email Message ] [ Show All Posts by FireStorm ]
He recently posted some really good info on this subject. I have copied and pasted it below (Ron, I hope you don't mind. I just thought it was great advice, and I don't know how to link to it.) It really does work. It's basically the same thing I was told to do when I got my WC girl, and she ate right away.
Maybe Ron will post here and give you some more advice.
Here's Ron's post from before. I hope it helps.
Posted by: thebigsquease at Sat Jun 16 14:59:21 2007 [ Report Abuse ] [ Email Message ]
Seems like I'm becoming the expert on this topic.
I have not had one WC ball python I could not get to eat.
People like the ones, who posted earlier, need to stay as far away from anything, but CB animals. WC are not for lazy people.
They take work. Sometimes, a lot of work.
But the rewards can be well worth it.
This is how I set up my WC females, and it works wonders.
Tub: I use 44 Qt Rubbermaids. 23"x16.7"x9". I like the tall ones, cause I use quite a bit of mulch for bedding. (see bedding).
Hide: I use Large dark containers for hides. Either pre made hides you can buy at Repitle stores or swaps, or home made hides made from discarded kitchen containers.
Bedding: I use Cyress Mulch. Quite a bit of it. 3" to 4" of it as bedding. It holds humidity, and gives the animal(s) something to crawl thru, on and actually push around.
Heat: I maintain them at 88 degrees. Not much of a fluction.
A little from front to rear, but not much.
Handling: I don't.
Water: Large cermaic water dishes. Almost large enough for them to get into.
Food: Small to medium size rats. I do not feed anything to Ball pythons, but Rats. From hatchlings to adults. No gerbils, Guinea Pigs, Pot Belly Pigs, or Soft Furred Rats.
The key to maintaining WC animals is avoidance of STRESS.
Constant handling, checking, looking at, or just staring at, can cause un due stress in WC animals. Be Ball Pythons or Sand Boas.
They look at us (humans) as a threat. Only over time, will they settle down, and become more trust worthy.
I offer food to my WC females once a week. Late at night. Small rats. Not pinkies, not hoppers, not huge adults. The size most people would call teenager size.
After an hour or so, I remove the rodent if not consumed.
I do this every other week. To this date, I have not kept an adult WC Ball python, that has not started eating on it's own in my collection.
I do not recommend Force feeding. If the animal (snake) is not eating, there is a reason why. Almost 100% of the time, it is a husbandry issue. You have to look at your set up, and see what the snake is not comfortable with.
Keeping Wild caught animals is not for everyone. If you want something to eat 99.9% of the time, don't buy WC. If you want something that doesn't take time to acclimate, dont' buy WC.
If you want something that everyone else has, and be happy with your purchase, then for all means go buy a CB animal. Leave the WC balls to people who have experince with working with diffuclt animals. People who thrive on a challenge. People who are hoping to come up with the next new.... thing.....!!!
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Ron Billingsley
www.ronbillingsleyreptiles.com
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Ron Billingsley... - FireStorm, Tue Jun 19 22:20:46 2007