Posted by:
joshhutto
at Thu Nov 15 15:23:32 2007 [ Email Message ] [ Show All Posts by joshhutto ]
hook training is helpful with all species of snakes. The practice is a necessity for any snake that can get over 8ft and it is never too late to start doing it. I previously had a 14ft african rock that was the devil incarnate and when I started hook training him, he could be moved for cleaning with minimal problems (only got bit once in 3 years after hook training started). Also handling every day is not a great practice in my experience as it provides a stessful situation every day and can lead to health problems for you (think a stressed snake is a snake more likely to bite) and your snake. On all of our large snake species we usually handle 2-3 times per week for very short time periods (less than 5 minutes) that simulate moving for cleaning, breeding, photo shoots and with a few animals public talks. It is my personal opinion from experience that no large snake should be handled for the purpose of "petting". It only takes a change of wind or airflow that could bring in the smell of rats, cats, dogs, or birds that can set-off a snake right into feeding mode which can be deadly with large constrictors.
now back to hook training. What we do is if the snake is not being fed, no matter what the reason for opening the cage the hook goes in first. If we are removing shed, waste, cleaning water, or just looking at the snake, the snake gets a very light tap on the nose and then moved with the hook before our hand enters the cage or tub. Burmese are very receptive to this and even hatchlings that are less than a month old almost never bite when performed consistantly.
I will stress as one of the other posters did, ALWAYS FEED IN THE PRIMARY CAGE. Removing a snake for feeding only conditions them to expect food outside of the cage which is a bad thing that can get you on the front cover of a newspaper in a very bad way.
One of the other posters also stated he would use thawed prey to prevent any damage to your new snake, well I disagree. As long as the prey item is the "right" size and you don't leave a rat in the cage unattended, you will never have a bite that can really damage your snake. The "right" sized prey item will be immobilized immediately by the snakes coils. The problem is there are people feeding 4ft burms large rats, which in that case you have to kill the rats first since the snake could get hurt very easily. Just because a snake can eat a very large meal doesn't always mean it should and in the wild they do not perform these feats on a routine basis as constricting and digesting these large meals takes up a considerable portion of the energy the provide.
I hope these posts have helped you and if you have any questions feel free to email.
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Josh & Krysty Hutto
J&K Reptiles
Various Ball Pythons, boas, dogs, cats, fish, an amel tiger retic female, a couple sulcatas and a few other odds and ends.
a BAD dog is MADE not bred, support the American Pit Bull Terrier as the greatest breed of dogs on Earth!!!!!
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RE: Getting a burm, Need some tips! - joshhutto, Thu Nov 15 15:23:32 2007