>>Interesting point on the 220 potential. But I think code requires all coating to rate over 3x the actual voltage?

>>



I believe that I've read that somewhere but can't remember exactly. Many specs show more than 3x as you said for 120V-rated materials (like the plastic on lamp sockets, etc).



>>But that siad, that is getting close expected tolerances.

>>

>>No split in China. Just 220.

>>

Oh. See? What do I know?



>>Nice catch on the application.

>>

>>

>>

>>Big tom

>>

>>

>>

>>

>>>>My humble opinion is that it will work as long as the heater is rated such that 220V will not arc through the laminate. Yeah, I know you are splitting the voltage, but still. Since you have 220 on it, you don't want the potential to pass current through the laminate to metal tape or whatever metal may be nearby. I think Flexwatt laminate can handle 220V, but you need to be certain.

>>>>

>>>>I admire your idea very much, but I wouldn't do it. I would rather take a 110V leg from the 220V source and use that. Having the Flexwatt be the splitter is a potential safety hazard. You know how herpers are. Dragging boxes right over Flexwatt and such. Split the voltage first, then feed the heater I would say.

>>>>-----

>>>>Mark

>>-----

>>Thanks for reading.

>>Big Tom

>>

>>www.HerpZillA.com

>>www.HerpHelp.com




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Mark

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