OK, I perused through your post below, but honestly didn’t look at all the replies so if any of this is a repeat, sorry, but I am lazy, lol.



Looking at the pics in your post it appears that you are depending on the under cage heating mat as your source of heat. Many times that isn’t enough if the ambient room temp is say 68-72. Go buy a Maximum/Minimum thermometer from Lowes, they run about $13-$15.00. Utilize it to monitor the temps in the cage and I bet you money the temps are dropping MUCH more than you think. Believe me; I learned the hard way even after being told this over and over. Also, be sure the vents in the room are not blowing directly at the cage. I closed the vents off in my winter room for raising my young and I also utilize the highest wattage bulbs and this alone has kept the room at nearly 78 with no other heating help.



You mentioned increasing the feeding response, definitely do not do that. If he is not interested in the prey now, then throwing it at him more frequently isn’t going to change anything. Unless he is noticeably skinny and in bad shape (if so it is likely too late anyway), then give him at least 7 days with no prey, only water. THEN after the 7 days have passed, try offering prey, you may have to utilize live and that is ok for a hatchling. I would start by placing the prey at the mouth of his favorite hide so he isn’t scared of the prey that “just showed up." I hate to say it, but if he has to be force fed, then the stress will likely kill it, that must be your last resort, but it shouldn't be utilized when the snake is way past saving. Make sense?



Hope this helps and I really suggest you monitor the temps as that has been the culprit to 90% of my non feeding issues in adults and babies. Good luck



dc

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