Posted by:
HappyHillbilly
at Sun Oct 12 11:33:17 2008 [ Email Message ] [ Show All Posts by HappyHillbilly ]
Hi!
From your whole post I got the impression that you knew the difference between aggressive & defensive behavior. I hope I didn't come across as "calling you out" on using "aggression" in general. A lot of times I'll take opportunities like that to talk to the many people that silently read these forums, to try to make sure that they are aware also.
And no, you’re not blowing any of this out of proportion. Not at all. You’re looking ahead, something that more people need to do. I’d much rather a new driver learn how to use the gas pedal and the brake pedal before they reach the intersection of Main St. & Central Blvd.
"...what are some good methods to training a burm into not recognising you as either predator or prey when opening the cage?
I think a few of you mention using a hook to let them know the difference. are there any other means or additional ways to add to this technique?"
I have a bad habit of getting "too deep" sometimes. Ha! Please forgive me. One thing that I feel is important is eliminating the element of surprise, which I believe is the #1 cause of defensive strikes.
Sudden opening of a cage, without the snake being aware that you're anywhere around, can be bad for business. Also, a lot of times snakes will be in a state of trance and they may appear to be looking right at you but they don't actually see you or anything else that's going on.
Bump the cage a lil', tap on it so they can feel the vibrations, whistle. (We all know that snakes can't hear so whistling is just to sooth the keeper's nerves.  ) Hey, it works. Sometimes I like to harmonize my whistling with my Burm's hissing. Hahaha!!! (Sorry. I'm feeling a bit giddy this mornin'. I'll try to tighten up.)
If the snake's lying motionless, possibly in a trance, use a hook (umbrella, broomstick, fashioned coat hanger, etc...) to gently stroke/tap the snake on its head & neck.
Once you have the snake's attention give it a minute or two to become fully aware of what's going on.
With young Burmese Pythons it's possible to lift them out of their cage safely with most hooks, but not when they're 10ft long. With large snakes a strong hook can be used to pull it out of a cage that opens from the front instead of the top.
Snakes, in general, especially Burmese Pythons, learn pretty quick what a hook is for. It’s up to us to use the hook to signal “handling” and not confuse the snake by using a hook at any time during feeding. You’d be surprised just how fast they actually learn what it means. I’ve got an 8yr old rescued Burmese Python that never saw a hook it’s first 7yrs of life. Within a few weeks time it was conditioned.
Personally, I think when to start hook training depends on the snake, for the most part. A nippy hatchling is a prime candidate. More docile snakes should begin hook training/conditioning at least by the time they reach lengths of 6ft or so. You want to get them conditioned before their bites/actions become dangerous. Before it becomes more than a simple bite that draws a lil’ bit of blood. I generally begin hook training when they’re about 6 - 8ft. But keep in mind that all of mine are as docile as can be because I spend time handling them ever since they were hatchlings.
We’ve all had times where we’ve failed to handle our snakes like we should; sometimes the only opening of their cage is for feeding. This is begging for trouble. We can get away with it every now & then but it can easily become a bad habit. This can cause a feeding response to every cage opening. It conditions the snake to associate the opening of the cage with feeding, not feeding and/or handling.
Feeding:
I feed my hatchlings by placing the prey in their cage with bare hands, but I stop using my hands when they get to around 3ft or so. I’m usually working with 20-plus hatchlings and/or young ones at a time, so it’s a different story with me than it is in raising one or two. Actually, I think it’s best not to ever let them see you with prey in your hand or scent of prey on your hands. But still, even with my hatchlings I don’t get feeding responses when I open their tubs/cages. I open their cages more to water & handle them than I do to feed them.
So, at least by the time one reaches 3 – 4ft I strongly suggest feeding with tongs or grabbers for the rest of their life. Once again, you’ll be surprised how fast they’ll distinguish the difference between a pair of grabbers and a hook. Avoid confusing them. Don’t use a hook at all during feeding sessions & don’t use grabbers at all during handling sessions.
OK, I’ve kinda jumped around a bit here in this post. My apologies. I’m in a hurry & running behind, as usual. Let me tell you a routine that I usually follow as a bit of a summary. With so many reptiles and so little time I’m not able to spend the time I should with each snake or lizard. Here’s one way I’ve managed to keep my captives & myself in check:
If I haven’t spent time handling my snakes during the week I do it at feeding time. I make it a point to handle them before feeding them. With my 12ft female & 10ft male Burmese Python I open their cage. Most of the time they’re aware I’m there & they’re aware that I’m about to open their cage. They’re also aware that they’re about to taken out of the cage, to be handled because I always handle them before feeding them. In doing so, they’re conditioned to know that opening the cage doesn’t mean feeding.
I usually let them crawl out of the cage and to me. They always come to me if I’m standing by the cage. Once I’m confident they know who I am and that they’re aware of their surroundings I can safely lift them out of the cage. I may bath them, rinse them off in the tub and/or just let them crawl around the house for several minutes and handle them some as they move about. After a little exercise and handling I put them back in their cage and wait a few minutes to begin feeding them.
I’ve raised these two from hatchlings doing this and I’ve never had anything that closely resembles a feeding response strike, defensive or aggressive strike, from either one of them. They’re now 4yrs old. I’m raising three of their 2007 offspring the same way and never an issue with them, either.
If you haven’t already, follow the links below that I posted in another recent thread here & follow any links within them. There’s some more info on conditioning, with other people’s views, too. My way isn’t the only way – it’s only one of many ways. An ability to interpret a reaction and then determine its cause will go a long way in reptile keeping; in many, many areas of keeping.
I’m sorry this turned out to be a novel, but that’s another one of my bad habits (long posts).
Take care!
HH
Here are the links:
forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=1552022,1552022
forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=1387844,1387844
I also suggest scanning through the 5 or 6 pages readily available here in this forum for posts that mentions conditioning, hook training, temperament, behavior, etc…
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Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American
www.natures-signature.com
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RE: About "Aggression" - HappyHillbilly, Sun Oct 12 11:33:17 2008