how many of you cool your corns? and if so, what process do you use?



My cooling period is usually mid-late october for 2-3 weeks and then turn the heat off and sometimes open the windows to get the "feel" of the weather changes.. i Actually have a heated room (base board heat) and i turn it on low so if the temps get below 60s or 50s the heat comes on... the heater is right under the window so its pretty good at keeping the surprise freezing temps out... If it is supposed to get freezing i will close the window.... the reason for the cool down is to make sure the snake doesnt have any left over food in its belly which will start to go bad and eventually eat through the stomach wall and kill the snake... so i would definately do a 2-3 week waiting period, then a cooling period... i bring my snakes up early february and around mid february the snakes are usually shedding and breeding...This year i am going to do my brumation a lil later than usual so i can get hatchlings later in the year... my hatchlings are Very large and will be selling for more than usual at the local reptile expo since some are already eating fuzzies...





" I have no problem doing the cool down, but im just wondering how big of a process it is for everyone? "



I think it depends on how large of a collection you have.. i have over 100 snakes and yes, its a big process... moving the yearlings and hatchlings out of the room... along with other critters who cant tolerate the cool weather... only leaving the breeders..



"Also, if its more to just keep the snakes all ont he same cycle - is it necessary to do an extended and involved cool down for just the two snakes? "



if you have hatchlings you probably dont want to brumate them... some people do, but i dont. hatchlings are more sensitive and can be lost in the brumation process.



"Could i do more of an abbreviated cool down/warm up cycle? The one in the cornsnake manual sounds like it would take months and months to complete? "



some people dont brumate... but i do. it also helps the males with producing sperm for the upcoming year. so the smaller the brumation (if any) the smaller the possibility of clutch sizes, eggs, healthy hatchlings, etc... YOU be the judge



Breeding rack- i buy a huge "bakers rack" type thing from target and fill in the tubs. i find it cheaper... some people like the racks... but its just up to you... the rack itself from target is anywhere from $40-60 depending on the size... the tubs are $1 for the shoe box sized on up to around $5 depending on the style and size...



3. Heat tape?



I already told you i have a heated room... and it works for me so i cant really tell you.... BUT i have heard of people putting the under tank heaters on a cement or glass tile (like you use on floors and walls) that way if the tank breaks you dont have to worry about moving the UTH and risk the possibility of ruining it. just place the tile under the tank or plastic container... the larger the tile the larger the area of belly heat.... makes sense...



~kin
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~Sober Serpents~

www.freewebs.com/soberserpents

Corns, Creamsicles, A Black Rat, A pair of Leucistic Black Rat X Leucistic Texas Rat Intergrades, Thayeri, Cal Kings, A Jungle Corn, Ball Pythons, Leopard Geckos, Green Anoles, 2 Snapping Turtles, an Eastern Box Turtle, a Bearded Dragon, an Adult Rescue Iguana, and A Baby Iguana

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