Posted by:
Chris_Harper2
at Tue Feb 10 14:22:05 2009 [ Email Message ] [ Show All Posts by Chris_Harper2 ]
From reading about polyurea (in general) I would say it would go on a lot thinner and would have more heat resistance. Bartop epoxy would go on thicker and be less heat resistant.
Both should be flexible enough to deal with expansion and contraction typical in wood products. But polyurea is formulated a lot of different ways so I just can't say for sure.
I think the Reptishield covers 75 square feet per quart. I think two coats are recommended to it would get about two to four times the coverage of bartop epoxy, depending on how thick the pour was. It is about twice as expensive so cost is basically the same, assuming one knows how to do a thin pour with bartop epoxy.
One other issue is that very few things stick to polyurea. So if you wanted to silicone edges or attach perch holders or whatever you probably could not do so. But again, maybe this formulation is different?
Another question is how repairable is it? For a product that goes on that thin I would want to be sure that it could be re-coated in the future.
Lastly, I'm not 100% convinced bartop epoxy should be the first thing people consider when wanting to use an epoxy. I have used them and liked them but they do have to be applied pretty thick. They can be poured at about 1/16" thick but that is not easy and not something a novice should try on their first attempt.
The upshot is that I think some of the thinner laminating resins are better choices for wood cages. How they compare to polyurea I just can't say. ----- Currently keeping:
6.10 Gonyosoma oxycephalum (Javan, mixed colors)
0.0.4 Rhynchophis boulengeri
1.1 Philodryas baroni
1.1 Lampropeltis triangulum multistriata
0.0.1 Rhamphiophis rubropunctatus
0.0.2 Morelia viridis (Aru & Merauke locale types)
1.0 Rhodesian Ridgeback
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