Posted by:
PHLdyPayne
at Mon May 18 15:07:53 2009 [ Email Message ] [ Show All Posts by PHLdyPayne ]
Leave crickets in a bowl in the cage and come back in an hour to remove any uneaten crickets (they tend to die if left in a bowl in a cage after awhile, though if you put a few greens in as well, crickets can sort of hide underneath and have something to snack on..and the greens can be eaten by the dragon too. Just make sure the greens are not piled so high the crickets can get out of the bowl easy (though crickets can still jump out, sometimes they don't think of that though.)
Temperature outside doesn't matter, whether its 100F or -100F. What is important is the temperature in your cage. Your basking spot range is fine, what is the cool end of the cage's temperature? Also leave the basking spot on. If it heats up the cage too much, reduce wattage of the bulb. You can easily get 25 watt bulbs. What you are looking for is the light intensity to promote proper basking temperatures. If the light in the cage is too dim, your dragon will think its time to brumate. Or he will think its evening and not bask at all.
It isn't unusual for dragons to not eat much during the first week or two after you bring him home, so don't be too worried he doesn't eat alot. Some dragons also take longer to become used to their new home as well. Cover all the sides of the cage except the front to make him feel more comfortable. Also, when you enter the room do it slowly instead of rushing in at your normal walking pace. A sudden arrival of a large potential predator in its vicinity will cause a skittish dragon to flee for cover. Its a survival instinct. In time he will come to know that you are not going to eat it and will not panic when he sees you coming.
I also wouldn't bother trying to handle him right now. Just get him used to his cage and eating regularly, then you can slip some gloves on and pick him up for a few minutes to get him used to handling. ----- PHLdyPayne
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