Posted by:
HappyHillbilly
at Sat Jul 25 15:47:08 2009 [ Email Message ] [ Show All Posts by HappyHillbilly ]
I have two yearling retics and plenty of Burmese hatchlings, sub adults & adults.
No offense to anyone, but I don't think covering the head of an animal that you are trying to win the confidence of is the right approach. It may very well work sometimes but I think it's counterproductive.
Eye contact usually isn't an issue because every snake I've dealt with are more into keeping their eyes on the moving, encroaching hand (or target) rather than the person's eyes. However, which could be what was meant, the first moment of encounter can involve eye contact. It is here that hesitation and/or non-deliberate actions can set things on the wrong course, causing the snake to become concerned.
You've got to find that balance between opening the cage and immediately snatching up the snake without any hesitation & opening the cage and moving steadily, but not slow, to pick up the snake without hesitating. This is the point that sets all other actions, reactions, in course.
Don't expect immediate results with that technique because odds are the snake will still strike/bite the first several times it's done.
At early age & size, the large python breeds can be dealt with without a hook. However, hooks come in handy for removing some nippy ones from their cage at the beginning of the taming process. I keep & have kept many different reptiles and I personally don't think you've been bitten until you've been tagged by a retic. With the exception of venomous, of course.
The main principle behind hooks with large python breeds is so we don't have to risk our limbs & lives reaching into a 14ft snake's cage. I usually begin hook training somewhere around 7 - 8ft long. They learn quick & easy.
Most snakes tend to not stirke/bite as much once out of their cage. There are many different ways of working with the larger breeds to get them out of their cage safely for handling. I've got a pair of 12 - 14ft Burms that I've conditioned to crawl out of the cage & to me. I can easily & worry-free pick them up once they're about halfway out of the cage. They actually crawl to me every time I open their cage and just stand there. Nearly all of my Burms actually crawl right to me when I open their cage. And no, it's not looking for food.
Come feeding time I don't leave the cage open long enough for them to crawl out. I open the cage, place F/T rats/rabbits inside & close it up.
Will these yearling retics I've got ever get to the same point? I think so. They no longer strike/bite when I open their cage or when I reach in to get them out. And I've not had the time to work with them nearly like I should. Basically, it's been a once a week session, if that.
Keep 'em fed right to help eliminate feeding responses and make sure that the only time you open the cage it isn't mostly for feeding.
Please keep us posted on your progress, regardless of how long it's been.
Best wishes!
HH
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Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American
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RE: help with my retic - HappyHillbilly, Sat Jul 25 15:47:08 2009