Spotteds are one of the most agile snakes for getting into crevices. Of course, depends on the size of the snake and crevice. These snakes have flat heads and will squeeze into crevices that to us seem way too narrow for a snake to cram into.



There are many ways to seal a divider, even if not permanent. Spray foam sealant is one way, especially for larger gaps. Once dried it is safe for the cage inhabitants. Epoxy putty is another, more permanent way. Or silicon. Give me details on the cage divider and I can tell you how.



I would focus your energy on sealing the gaps as opposed to wondering if the spotted will or won't eat the ball python.



Care tips: Spotteds love tight hideboxes. I make mine out of pine molding (1/2 inch thk by 2 1/2 tall) and 1/4 inch thick plywood tops. I spray 2 coats of shellac, which dries to a odor-free and completely non-toxic coating. Then I put cork "dots" (surface protectors) under the wood frame so the hide sits off the floor just a bit so liquid on the cage floor doesn't get on the hide. An adult can fit into an 11 inch x 8 inch hide or smaller, except for maybe the larger Cape York spotteds. The hides I made are 11x6. Use multiple hides of appropriate size, one on the hot side, one on the cool side.



Temps hot side can be in the 90-100 deg F range as long as a cooler area exists in the cage. They will use 100 deg basking temps sometimes, but you can do 90s if you feel more comfortable that way. In that case the snake will just sit at the 90 deg spot longer than it would a 100 deg spot.



Keeping spotteds at low temps (like 80 deg max) is not ideal at all. They need to be able to choose higher temps if desired. They may not need them all of the time, but let them choose. Night temps can drop if you want to 78 deg or so. Mine got quite a bit lower, snakes are fine.
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Mark

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