I am working on my first prototype of a small vert cage (18" tall by 12" wide by 10" deep). The shell and doors are 3/4" pine (cabinet grade).



Cabinet grade pine plywood or solid wood?





If you use solid wood, especially pine, my concern is that you'll get warping due to temperature and humidity differentials inside and outside the enclosure. This will only be more likely and significant if you use two different finishes inside and outside the cage, like your catalyzed lacquer and a polyurea.





First, thanks for the response! I'm going with solid pine. I guess one thing that I should state is that I am making this "prototype" as the first test run for cages that I'd like to sell here locally. That said, I have reconsidered a few things. Like the wood choice. I am using pine, and will probably still for this cage (mostly since it's already glued up). But my next one will be probably plywood framed, and solid wood on the face (like most cabinets are done).





1.) I plan on using the standard finishing procedure on the exterior as we do in the shop. This consists of stain, a water based glaze for tinting, seal coat, and a few coats of lacquer (precatalyzed, the brand is MagnaMax). I don't have the names of any of these other products, but, I know that it off gases in only a few days (at least to the standard of my pregnant wifes nose). I don't see this being a serious issue, since it's on the outside, but I figured it was worth asking.



Not sure if I understand the question but I would not worry about any of these on the cage exterior. For sure I would not use the catalyzed lacquer on the interior, but that's already not in your plans.





Right, no lacquer on the interior. You answered the question perfectly, confirming what I was thinking as well.





2.) My plan for the inside is to go the water based polyurea route, tough, waterproof(ish?), and contrasting color to the outside. Something intended for flooring possibly? I'd like to be able to get it from a local hardware store. And then on the bottom, route a location for the flexwatt and wiring, and cover with contact paper, or something... My idea is to conceal the flexwatt and really make sure that moisture won't be an issure. Silicone the edges (all of them), and call it a done deal. Does this plan sound good? Sound, sound?



If you use polyurea you probably won't be able to get anything to stick to the floor, so any of your flooring options would be pretty much ruled out. If you want to use polyurea then I would use only that and find another way to accomplish your heating goals without cutting our routing into the floor.





I hadn't thought about this, very good point. Any recommendations for a good poly?





3.) Lastly, a plexi question... I know, dime a dozen, sorry... The local hardware store sells various sizes of Lexan, Acrylic, and Glass. I'd prefer the first two, since I can cut them myself, but I am open to suggestions. Also, the only thickness offered is .093". It would be holding a neonate scrub, green tree, etc, doesn't really matter, and would only be about 12" by 16". The thickness seems fine to me, I'm just not sure which of the two stands up to the test of time. Scratch resistant, won't get foggy, etc. Any input would be appreciated.



Again, not sure I understand what the question is but I assume you're asking about doors? I would use glass.





Glass it is.



I guess it's worth mentioning that I believe I am going to move away from heat tape. Mark, your advice was considered here, coupled with the idea of selling a cage with heat tape. My biggest concern with heat tape, especially sealed under something such as Formica, is that someone wouldn't be able to check on it. I trust my wiring, and I know how to check for symptoms of malfunctioning heat tape, but I wouldn't trust the GP to do that. I am now leaning towards an after market heating system, ie, RHP or CHE system. Essentially, this leaves the heating elements in the hands of the end user... In doing this, I can simply use polyurea on the interior, which I like better. Less steps really.



Stand by for more updates... Again, thanks for the insight.



~John

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