10 Days? That's it?



First things first, stop messing with it. Raise the temperature like suggested, but don't try and look in the mouth if you have no idea how to do it without stressing out the animal.



Continue to leave it alone, with hides in there. What kind of hides are you using? Try changing them to smaller, more enclosed hides with only one exit/entrance. My personal favorite for small BPs is to use toilet paper tubes and those single serving cereal boxes. Your goal when creating a hiding spot is to allow the snake to wedge itself in there as tightly as possible - it helps make them feel secure. Keep in mind that this is a shy, secretive species that spends most of its life in the wild wedged into rodent burrows in the smallest, tightest spot it can find.



Continue to offer a small live mouse as prey once a week, as difficult as it may be. While yes, a live mouse can hurt your snake, use common sense and don't leave it alone in there for over 15 minutes. If you're really worried, leave a block of rodent food or dog food in the cage just in case.



Lastly, stop worrying so much. Sitting there and fretting is not doing you or the snake any good. The time to worry is after a month or two of the snake continuing to refuse to feed, at which point you should contact a good herp vet.



~jen
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"We call them dumb animals, and so they are, for they cannot tell us how they feel, but they do not suffer less because they have no words."

- Anna Sewell (1820-1878)

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