Most folks find a recipe that works for them, based on their facilities, commercial or not, collection size, species, etc.

Some folks who find their "success recipe" will sometimes tell you "this is the only way".

Don't be afraid to try different techniques that make sense to you.

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For what it's worth.

I cool all my North American Rats exactly the same way (except for Western Greens and Subocs). That means Florida Key's Deckert's Rats are literally brumated side-by-side my Eastern Fox Snakes.

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Temps at 60F, put down in the dark with one sliver of natural, indirect light penetrating the hibernaculum room (shed). (Measure Temps, don’t guess.)

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They normally live together and are put to "sleep" in pairs the week after Thanksgiving.

They come out around the end of Feb.

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Every cage breeds every year, unless I choose to separate them.

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South Florida animals tend to double clutch.

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IMHO the five most important ingredients for success are:

1. Photoperiod is almost more important than temp. (And physical disturbance kept to an absolute minimum.)

2. When coming out of brumation, females particularly need to be pumped with food.

3. When males come out of brumation, avoid overheating them in any way.

4. Animals have access to fresh water during brumation.

5. Temps during brumation just need to be cool enough to put them into inactivity. (I use the word loosely here, because it is not unusual to see them occasionally cruising their cages in the dead of winter.

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Animals kept this way are every NA Rat variant listed in the 1958 issue of Conant’s Field Guide and a few kings.

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As an aside, I brumate holdover hatchlings for no other reason than to give me a break for two months!!!!!!!

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Good luck.
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Regards, Bill McGighan

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