I agree 100% about the humidity with hatchlings. In fact, I do keep my hatchling on the humid side untill they have put on a few grams. They are then kept dryer and all of my hogs, inclding adults are offered humidified hides (something generally not recommended by other keepers/breeders). I know, it is not very "natural" but it does allow them to exibit some level natural behavior. It allows them the choice of a humidity gradient so they can maintain their moisture intake. I have to say that I rarely, if ever, see my hogs drink. I personally believe that humidity gradients are just as important as temperature gradients.

See, you have addressed the problem, it seems others have not. But why to you stop keeping them humid??? Is it because its harder to keep the cage clean? If so, thats not about the snakes, its about us keepers.



I am also 100% with you on nesting. I offer large nest areas. When I find eggs, they are all in a group and almost never come into contact with the nest box. They are usually in a "pocket" dug out in the nesting substate.



I feel that dehydration and improper nesting is the cause of egg binding and it has little or nothing to do with the age and actual size of the female. So I do what I can with the space I have to prevent this.

we again agree, and again you have addressed the issue, you can use large nesting in a seperate container. I use large storage boxes, made into cage/nesting and move the females in them when they go into shed. Helps shedding/nesting and effects female and egg health. After the first nesting, they remember and take right to them. The first event is a learning event and you will see some investigating.



As far as feeding issues go and the pickyness of some hatchlings go, I do not so much try to rationalize it as I do try to come to conclusions as to why it is so. Why are hogs different than kings or corns? The huge majority of hatchlings eat without fail. Why have I produced litters of gaboons and puff adders and never had a neonate refuse a meal? I never had to scent feed any other species I have bred. Only hogs. Genuinely looking for your input on this Frank.

ITs already clear you do not do "recipe" husbandry and address your charges as to their needs. About hogs, a couple of thoughts, first, hogs hatch out at 4 or so inches, which makes them meals for even a medium sized toad. As I mentioned, rodents in nature occur in a different pattern then captivity, which means, pinkies in nature are normally in a nest and that nest usually contains the mother and father, and wild rodents do indeed protect their offspring. So I would think(rationalize) its not a great plan for a hog to take pinkies until its much larger and can protect itself.



These types of behaviors are soft types, that is, they will not normally eat things like wood, or apples etc, with will investigate and consume fish frogs, some insects, birds, rodents, reptiles etc as food.



My concern is not with what individual snakes choose as prey or what is a natural prey item, its about how many here approach it(not you) Many resort to trickery FIRST. My recomendation and I am sure is yours as well, would be. Try such things as you did, humidity choices, different temps, cool spots, warm spots, better sheltering(security) etc, and do those before trickery. Also trickery means scenting with what seems very unnatural, tuna and salmon. As I mentioned, I offered fish to some of my hogs and they took them without hesitation. So fish may be a natural prey item.



None of us truely have the answers to some of the problems beginners run into. There are too many variable so I do not think people want to say this that and the other thing is indeed the problem. I think most like to take the diplomatic route with questions.

Here we disagree. You have told me how you adjusted your cages and those adjustments are the answer to many of the problems I was so surprised to see here.



Anyway Frank, I have to admit, I do not keep hogs because of the morphs. I keep them because I think they are cool snakes. However, the cool morphs are the reason why I keep as many as I do. LOL.



Maybe that is the reason why I can not keep them all in huge cages with tons of options but I do my best to keep them healthy and thriving.



The point is, I never said all or nothing, not with anything, not with cage size, or amount of options to choose from. What is concerning is the lack of learning. What shocked me was, some folks think of themselves as experts and say, hogs do this or that, while all along, they have no idea what a hognose is, They do nothing or try nothing. They keep the snakes in a way, you cannot see them, observe them, or learn anything about them. If they have problems, they resort to ANOTHER RECIPE.



My hope would be, they start with a larger cage and test different choices and actually learn the animals. It does not mean you cannot keep them in Rack systems. I have to say, Rack systems are not and were never meant for learning or understanding or ENJOYING snakes. They are purpose built to house large numbers in small areas. So with this is mind, Rack systems are not about husbandry(husbandry means to husband or support) Rack systems are not about support, they are about the bare minimum. My question is, do these wonderful animals(your words) deserve to always be kept at the bare minimum??????? See, I ended with a rant. hahahahahahahahahaha Thanks again Gregg

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