Posted by:
ingo
at Fri Jan 9 00:55:59 2004 [ Email Message ] [ Show All Posts by ingo ]
So here is my feeding regime (for adults!)
Starting after brumation:
February:
Every other day a small portion of dandelion leaves (which can be found at this time) mixed with small carrot pieces and supplemented with fresh wheat germs.
In addition to that red and yellow millet is available all the time mixed with lentils and parrot food.
March:
This is when courtship activities typically begin. I increase variety of fresh veggeis, all taken form the meadow behind our house. Typically the mixture consists of Taraxodon, Salvia, Trifolium, Artemisia, Achillea, Heracleum, Rumex, Ranunculus, Plantago species and the like and supplemented with even more wheat germs. Dry feed is enriched by some beans and a small portion of rabbit pellets, which consist of mainly alfalfa and have a 20% protein content. From time to time I give a single Feeder insect.
April-June:
This is the time of egg production and recovery.
In addition to what I give in March, I give insect food 2-3 times a week ad libitum. I mainly feed roaches, crickets and superworms.
Juli-August:
Like march, but green food is only offered twice a week. Recall that greens are rare in their habitat in summer.
Also the relative portion of Plantago is increased since these plants are comparatively rich in dietary fibres. I do not give insect food any more.
September-Oktober:
I give the same mixture of greens, but dried for 3 days before giving them to the Uros. Dry food stays unchanged.
November:
I feed dried greens once a week and in addition only give millet and some kardi.
December-February. No food, brumation.
All the time:
All dry food is dusted with a mixture of 1 part of calcium citrate with 2 parts of the german Mineral/Vitamine powder "Vitakalk".
All food is mixed with roughly grinded up straw pellets (available here as tortoise food or Horse food) and with Plantago ovata seeds, which both supplement the dietary fibres which are relatively low in the plants available.
Bird grit is constantly available in the tank.
In addition t the mentioned dusting Adults do receive 20 IU liquid D3/kg animal ( I do give the active 1,25 Dihydroxy form, which is not publically available, but Cholecalciferol also works well and is much less toxic)twice a week injected into a small roach which is fed to the respective animal by hand.
Every other day I fill a small cavity on a rock with water. This typically is dried out after 2-3 hours and sometimes the Uros drink from it and sometimes they ignore it.
The Uros have the choice between several hide boxes attached to the tank via tubings of different length. Some of these hide boxes are filled with almost dry sand, one contains quite moist sand and one contains moist bark mulch. They make use of the different humidities for hydration and shedding and they use a moderately moist box for egg laying.
This is my feeding regime. Of course just one of many possibilities.
But thats what works very well for me.
Ci@o
Ingo
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