Without knowing what type of thermostat you are refering to,or,the specifics of your timer,I can tell you that standard "on-off" lamp timers are designed to operate at what is considered "full power",they are not meant to be "dimmed",or,have their operating voltage altered.other commonly used paraphenalia that should always receive "full power" are (most)electric motors,such as "fan forced air" heaters,and,fluorescent lights.The two most commonly used thermostats are either "on-off",which "make-or-break" electrical current based on temperature rise,or,drop,(depending on application,and/or,setting.)and,"pulse proportional",(such as Helix brand,and,others.)which continuously alter incoming current by "communicating" with a secondary "power module". Using the latter type of controlling device in the manner you suggest would subject the timer to voltages that it was not designed to operate at,and,would probably result in failure,and/or,possibly,the risk of fire...using a basic on-off type thermostat,("wafer type",or,"point break" )seperately from whatever you are using for the UTH would be the safer option,however,this can,and,will result in the "flashing light syndrome",where your light will flutter on & off when the temp.hovers near the setpoint,which is why CHE's were invented,if you use a CHE,(ceramic heating element.)make sure your fixture is rated for it,and,take precaution that it is securely mounted,and,all flammable materials/objects are well clear of it!!! (any changes,or,new "set-ups" should always be done when you will be home,and,have time to monitor their progress frequently,to ensure they are operating within the desired parameters of your given situation!)it's much better to be safe than sorry,hope this helps!

[ Show Entire Thread ]