“What is the accepted age/size that is most recommended for breeding JCP's?”



Females should be around 2.5 years of age with significant body mass to hold them for the incubation period. As a general rule of thumb 2000-2500 grams is appropriate for cheynei. Males can probably breed around 1.5 years of age and significantly lower weight. Things to take into consideration are that an average clutch will be roughly half the body weight of the animal. This especially hold true for younger animals which can cause problem as you said like egg binding and infertile clutches. The older the female the larger the clutch size, and the less work you have to do to return her to maintenance weight. This does not mean that it is ok to power feed an animal to get it above the recommended weight, as this will ultimately compromise the healthy of the animal.



“Are there temperature restrictions or conditions that will prepare a JCP for breeding?”



That is a debatable question. Most breeders offer a winter cool down and light cycle change, but some don’t. There have been recorded clutches with no temperature or light cycling prior to breeding. Once again, as a general rule of thumb in late fall feeding ceases in preparation for winter cooling. Once the animals have been determined clear of any digestible matter, temperatures can be reduced. This is all dependant upon your setup and geographical location. Normal day time temps of 85-90 degrees and night time temps of 80-85 (possibly lower if no night heat is offered) are reduced to day time temps of 75-80 and night time temps of 70-75 (some offer no daytime warm up). The temps are gradually changed over the course of a week or two and brought back up in the end of cooling the same way. These are just rough guidelines and can be varied to fit your personal preference. Some experimentation is definitely needed. As for light cycles they are dropped for 12/12 (off/on) to 14/10 or even 16/8. Total cooling time should be at least one month at minimum temps. I could go on forever with this…so if you want more just ask.



“I gather from what I read that JCP's are left together for a more extended period until breeding is witnessed, or something. Would anyone like to clarify?”



After or slightly before your spring warm up pairs are introduced. Either male into female’s cage or vice versa. Doesn’t really matter, I normally put the male into the females cage. This change makes him more prone to explore and hopefully find that waiting lady. If no copulation is seen and temps have been brought back up to normal. You can introduce/separate on a 3 days together 3 days apart schedule. The animals can be offered food while separated, but most won’t feed. Keep this schedule until the female ovulates. Ovulation is marked by a large swelling for up to 24 hours just past midpoint on her body. If you miss it which allot of use do, counting “17-22 days” from every shed is her oviposition (laying) date. If no action is seen, you may use other techniques to get them going. This includes, but is not limited to, male to male combating, alternate male’s shed introduction, misting, weather pattern watching (storm are great aka low pressure), manual stimulation, etc. Will expand if needed…



“How long are JCP's gravid?”

Once a female copulates she can ovulate anywhere between “11-25 days” after, or not at all. A prelay shed follows on an average of “17-22 days”. Oviposition takes another “19-35 days”. So basically you are looking at a minimum of 47 days and maximum of 82 days from a successful copulation. The successful copulation being the determining factor. I have personally witnessed copulation for three month before it took.



“What is the average clutch size?”



Average clutch sizes range from “9-28 eggs” with an average being “16”.





“I noted from the sites I was reading that the snakes were manually pipped at day 51... But wasn't sure how it is done with the eggs in an incubator.. The temperatures seemed to be shifted frequently when the python incubated her own clutch.”



Clutches usually hatch anywhere from “47-61 days” after ovipostion. I recommend not manually pipping till after day 55. If the first to naturally pip was 48 hours ago then it is advisable to manually pip the remaining eggs. This is done by carefully pinching a very small portion of the top of the egg together and making a small cut in the outer shell. If nothing comes out and no movement is seen in another 48 hours the hole size can be gradually increased and the neonate can possibly be removed if the yolk sack has been ingested for the most part. Allot more here on hatchling care…



“Is it more common to allow a python to incubate their own clutch, or to use an incubator?”



Most people incubate their carpet clutches in incubators at 89-91 degrees with near 100% humidity. There are many techniques that can be used to include 1:1 vermiculite/pearlite : water by weight, no substrate method, modified no substrate method, etc. Females can incubate their own eggs if you can keep the humidity high enough and provide a constant temperature just below 89 degrees. One thing to consider though is maternal incubation will tax your female even more, because she will not eat at this time. Much more hear as well…



“If a python incubates her own clutch, does she ignore the hatchlings? Or are they maternal towards the little snakes?”



She will be very motherly to the eggs, but won’t pay much mind to them ounce they hatch.



Next…..



All time frames taken from Pythons of the World: Australia by the Barkers.
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http://www.moreliapythons.com

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