I agree. 10 gallons may work for commercial breeding pairs, (obviously, because a reliable commercial breeder does it with good success,) and 2 to 3 gallons is O.K. for the "nursery" period, or for temporary quarantine of a single sick frog. But for enjoyment of a group, or even a pair, the bigger the better. My smallest "permanent" tank is 30 gallons-- the largest 180--(maybe a bit overboard, but fun.) I have found that the more space the frogs have, the more they will tend to be comfortable out in the open where you can see them. That's a generalization, because some frogs are simply more shy than others, but I have found that with the most shy (blue auratus) that I've ever had, they became rather bold when I upgraded their space. The territorial species can also get away from each other and are less likely to fight, even if they hunt food together in the same open spaces. They need to retire to individual territories.



I even try to make the nursery tanks more interesting than the sparse papertowel and shoe box thing. The point here, is to be able to monitor new froglets until they are obviously growing and eating well. It can't be so complicated that they can totally hide from you, but you can still provide leaf cover from plant cuttings, maybe a couple of small deli-cups on their sides with a leaf cutting in each. What you are doing with a new nursery tank of newly obtained froglets, is monitoring their food consumption and health. It's also an oppotunity to get to know one from another, often from subtle markings and shapes. Their individual personalities show up nursery tank, as well. Believe me, they all have individual personalities.



The photo is of some of my D. galatonotus sharing a territory in a 135 gallon palludarium. They are groupies.





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Patty

Pahsimeroi, Idaho



4 D. auratus blue

5 D. galactonotus pumpkin orange splash back

5 D. imitator

6 D. leucomelas

4 D. pumilio Bastimentos

4 D. fantasticus

4 P. terribilis

4 D. reticulatus

4 D. castaneoticus

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