DZ,



The floor insulation works very well but not only for wood cages. In fact it probably does more for plastic and glass cages than it does for wooden cages.



The foil is very important as it reflects the radiant portions of the heat. Unless you're forcing heated air into your cage chances are you're mostly using radiant heat for your reptiles - light bulbs, heat pads, heat tape, CHE's and RHP's all produce radiant heat.



In fact just the bubble/foil insulation is probably all you need and you can likely buy it in smaller quantity than the styrene/foil insulation. I've been experimenting with this product and am amazed at what can be accomplished with strategic placement of this material.



Bill,



>>When I originally wanted to quit using bulbs in the early 90s I tried FlexWatt. All I ever got was a hot spot in a cold cage.



Bingo. Too many keepers simply take a temperature at the location of the under cage heat source and assume all is well. 95* at the hot spot, great, but often the cage is cold elsewhere.



>>Unless you have a specially heated herp room where all you need is a basking area, RHPs are the way to go.



I agree that RHP's are almost always a wise choice. But I prefer CHE's or heat bulbs for species that require extreme basking temps and relatively cool areas elsewhere in their cage. Many species of lizards, for example. In fact I really like CHE's in most applications. But RHP's are easier to use, more efficient, require less space, and don't heat cages stacked above so much.
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Current snakes:



1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)



3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)



2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

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