Posted by:
chris_harper2
at Wed Nov 10 11:32:32 2004 [ Email Message ] [ Show All Posts by chris_harper2 ]
>>any suggestions for the height for saving wood?
I'd have to go over the numbers a bit more, but the easy answer is 2' or less to save on wood.
For a 6' cage I'd encourage you to use 3/4" thick material and not have a solid floor. Instead I'd staple a 1/4" piece of expanded PVC directly to the outer rim of the cage. That way you could set the cage directly on an Under Tank Heater (if a UTH will be enough for your cage). This makes for a lighter cage and also allows you to easily replace the floor is it's ruined.
I believe it would allow you to build a 6'x2'x2' cage with a single sheet of material. You'd have to buy a small amount of extra wood for the face frame, but this would give it a more professional look anyways. Money well spent, IMO.
But with a floorless cage you have to consider where the cage will rest or if you want casters.
>>also was wondering about the pvc sheets, do they stay pretty clean and easy to clean up?
Burmese pythons have some pretty nasty urates that seem to soak through anything. But I do know people keep Burmese pythons in cages made from expanded PVC without any trouble.
>>and can i make the cracks water tight incase the snake spills the water, i dont want it all over the floor if it seeps threw the wood (if it gets past the pvc sheets).
If you use silicone you'll certainly have to replace it now and then. Just as you do with a shower or sink. If a small amount of water gets through to the wood it won't destroy the cage.
>>and i am also wondering still about the heat source still... if i use a heat pad it will do okay but how do i do it? i have wood all stuck together lined with pvc, how do you suggest getting the heat pad in? just put it between the pvc and the wood?
Considering an entire year, what is the coldest temperature of the room where the cage will be? That can make a huge difference. Large cages are hard to heat with heat pads, especially in a cool room. They are fine for small amounts of supplemental heat.
If you can afford it your easiest and safest choice is to use a radiant heat panel. I also believe it's the best choice for a Burmese python. Since you're saving money by building, splurge for a RHP. I may have some other money saving suggestions depending on what material you want to use and if the floorless design will work for you.
>>also was wondering what everyone suggests for locking the cage, just standard door hinges and little deadbolt things?
I like double sliding doors, aka bypass doors. In that case there are cabinet locks or you can simply put wooden dowels into the track.
>>and the last questions is, how should i hold the wood all together? just nails or screws?
I like counter-sunk screws (with glue), but nails and glue are plenty strong.
>>any glue?
I'm assuming you won't be using any dado or rabbet joints so glue is recommended. I have built large cages with basic edge joints and screws only (no glue) but I don't think it's a very good idea.
>>and how do i stick the pvc sheets to the wood to line the inside of the cage? just spread like gorilla glue of silicone?
A spray on adhesive will work fine. If you go with the floor-less cage I'd use silicone and a staple gun to attach the PVCX floor to the cage.
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Current snakes:
1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
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RE: BUILDING A CAGE FOR MY BURMESE PYTHON.... WOOD AND HEATING QUESTIONS - chris_harper2, Wed Nov 10 11:32:32 2004