Posted by:
chris_harper2
at Fri Nov 12 10:44:00 2004 [ Email Message ] [ Show All Posts by chris_harper2 ]
>>well i'm going to build two sets of cages. the overall length will be (around) 4 feet, overall height (around) 4 feet. I say around because you lose the amount due to the saw, so its pretty much four but not exactly. I'll have a divider in the middle and a 2-3" toe beam on the bottom so roughly each cage will be just under 2 feet high, and 2 feet deep.
So you are building two, double stacks? In other words, two units, each 4'x2'x4' and each consisting of two 4'x2'x2' cages?
In that case, I'd recommend 3/4" plywood for the sides and shelves. The back can be thin. I'd consider 1/8" rather than 1/4".
It sounds like a nice design and I'm sure your snakes will appreciate it.
To save even more weight basically cut two large rectangles out of what will be the floor of each level. The cover those holes with FRP or expanded PVC. This will also make adding supplemental heat easier.
>>I'm planning on using a 1/4" finish grade back. My big dilema is do I need a 3/4" middle shelf, mainly for preventing heat coming up from the bottom cage?
Like I said, I'd recommend 3/4" for this project anyways. With the light back and the floor cutouts I believe you can keep the weight reasonable.
>>The rest of the cages will get an epoxy glaze coat floor and I was just planning on doing about 4-5 coats of an outdoor polyurethane on the rest of the walls and ceiling.
I believe you should use plastic or FRP for the floors. Again, when it's over the cutout it will save weight and it will be very durable. Then you can use something less durable on the walls and ceiling.
>>I'm planning on using a 1/4" sliding doors. I'm going to take a router and cut some grooves, make them just over 1/4" apart from each other, and i'll glue a small piece of glass onto the back one, so when they meet there will be a solid wall there.
I'm not sure if I follow that design but I'll trust you have a good idea. But I don't recommend routing glass grooves into oak plywood. It might work okay if you use a real oak face frame.
>>This actually poses another question, I know you reccomend glass over acrylic, but doesnt the glass have a sharp edge? I don't want this to be a danger to either the snakes or myself.
You'll have the glass edges polished so no worries about that. Glass is the better choice here on all levels except for weight, IMO.
>>For heating I was planning on building a little inset into the cage like Captain Hook2 did. I also can't decide between covering the hole with 1/4" wire mesh or 1/8" lexan.
Don't cover the hole with lexan, especially if you're using CHE's or halogen heat lamps in that inset. Nose rubbing can be a problem but I believe screen will be fine for such a small area.
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Current snakes:
1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)
3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)
2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)
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RE: 1/2" apperance grade plywood - chris_harper2, Fri Nov 12 10:44:00 2004