>>Could I also maybe take some whitewood, say 2"x2" or maybe a 1"x4" and create a frame around the outside and seal the FRP to that?



You could, but plywood with it's alternating grain will add more of a structural element to the cage.



At the very least make the very bottom of the cage and the very top out of plywood shelves. Cut holes out of the bottom one, obviously leave the top on solid.



The middle shelf could be made out of a frame no problem, especially with your grandfather helping.



>>I can't find expanded PVC in any local hardware store.)



Call plastic distributors and ask. If there are none within driving distance then call sign shops and ask for Sintra (the most commen brand of expanded PVC). With large cutouts in the floor you should use 1/4" expanded PVC. FRP is also a good choice, just a bit more difficult to work with. PVC will conduct heat better if you ever added UTH's.



>>Would I seal a bead of the FRP to the bottom as well as the top or put a sheet of 1/8" wood to the top, or how would that work? Or just leave it as is and consider since i'm not looking up dont worry about the looks?



I would probably just leave it open. If you ended up using an UTH for some supplemental heat you may end up covering it for peace of mind. The snakes you keep will climb up there.



>>I'm planning on using blacklight bulbs. They're considerably cheap (i got some from walmart during the halloween time...i bought like 20 or so for a buck a piece. I put 'em up to a spectrometer and they produce the exact same wavelengths as a "reptile" bulb.)



I still think screen is better. Lexan does have a melting point, after all. A couple of summers ago I hung a 25 watt red bulb in my snake room to provide a small degree of visible light. I moved it out of my way one day and set it next to a plastic box. It melted through the box in very little time. Pretty dumb of me. Regardless, Lexan will have a higher melting point but I still don't believe it's a good idea. Also, lexan is pretty good at reflecting radiant heat so you'll be reducing efficiency.



>>My grandfather, who basically has done any kind of wood crafting you can imagine...he built his house, made all the cabinents, welded the door handles, etc... is going to help me undertake this project, so just because he does have so much experience we were thinking of using 1/2" - it seems usually the problem with 1/2" is the fact that people can't hit the center straight when you scew in from the side. I don't want it to bow in the center, however...so would 3/4" really be a better choice for that as well?



Chris, in a perfect world I'd use 3/4" ply for the horizontal pieces, possible have the center horizontal piece made from a frame. The sides would be 1/2", the back 1/8".



In fact that might save you the most money. You'll need two 4'x4' back panels so that's one sheet of 1/8".



If you go with a center frame instead of plywood that means you'll need four 2'x4' plywood pieces for the horizontals. That's another full sheet of 3/4".



You'll also need four side panels so that's another full sheet. I'd use 1/2" for that if I could find it.



In fact that might be a good reason to go with a frame for your center horizontal piece. It will save you from having to buy a half sheet of 3/4" or having a 4'x4' scrap piece laying around.
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Current snakes:



1.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Silver/Yellow)



3.4 Gonyosoma oxycephala - (Green)



2.1 Gonyosoma janseni - (Black)

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