Hey,

I'll try to answer this in short. Males and females should just prior to the breeding period, be separated for an 8 week period. (Some breeders prefer to introduce the pairs during the cooling period, just after temperatures have been adjusted and after an initial 2 week separation or after the full 8 week period). Pairs can be left together at this point if observed copulations are witnessed or can be paired together for 3 day intervals and then separated and returned to their respective cage, and reintroduced a few days later). Temperatures for both the males and females, should be lowered to the lower eighties during the day, with a low of about 82-84 DTH, with a NTL of about 77-78 degrees Fahrenheit. A basking spot can be provided for both sexes during the cooling period for about 4 hours during the day, after which the heat is turned off and the day time high resumes the recommended temperature. Blood pythons are not very tolerant of cool temperatures so a temperature in the low seventies is not recommended lest your blood will suffer from a RI, in not time flat. Both males and females should not be fed during the cooling period and food should be with held at least 2 weeks prior to cooling.



Note: Bloods should not be bred prior to their 3rd or 4th year of adulthood.



After the eight week period, both the male and female temperatures should be increased gradually to normal parameters, of mid eighties for an ambient temperature with a basking spot of 88-95 degrees depending on the heat source (type) and the size of the cage in question. At this time, both males and females can be introduced and allowed to copulate. Feedings should be done in separate containers during this period to avoid accidents during feedings of cohabitating bloods. Females will usually ovulate 6-30 days after the last copulation if observed, and will usually stop feeding there after. Some females have been known to eat after ovulation, while some stop feeding all together. My females stop eating once observed ovulations have taken place or a couple of weeks thereafter.



After about 20 days post ovulation, females will go into a pre-lay shed, and will lay eggs some 24-40 days later. Once females are known to be gravid, they should be separated from the male and set up in a separate cage. After the post-ovulation shed, females should be given a large container filled with long fiber sphagnum moss for her to nest in and lay her eggs. (I separate known gravid females and place into a large 2222 Rubbermaid sweater box and use newspaper for substrate).



Females that lay eggs earlier than the 24 day period usually have ovulated prematurely, and will sometimes deposit eggs that have not been shelled properly and will turn out to be infertile (slugs).



Eggs should be harvested about 12-24 hours post deposition, and should be set up in an established and calibrated incubator using the appropriate incubation medium, i.e., vermiculite, or perlite, or a 50/50 blend of the two aforementioned mediums, adjusted with an equal amount of water by weight. The incubation medium, should be placed into the incubator prior to adding any eggs and allowed to temper. Eggs take any where from 58-68 days to hatch depending on the incubation temperatures. Cooler temperatures will cause eggs to hatch later whilst warmer temps will decrease incubation times. I use a temperature of 31.7 degree Celsius plus or minus 1/10th (appx=88.88 Fahrenheit), to incubate blood python eggs. However, Blood and Short-tail eggs can be incubated successfully at temperatures of 88-92 degrees Fahrenheit.



I hope this helps! Phew!



-Angel
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"Until we lose our self, there is no way of finding our self."

-Henry Miller.

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