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WC Surinam Feeding Suggestions...Help Please

MonkeyLove Aug 07, 2003 09:41 AM

I have a pair of WC Surinam Boas I purchased from Ben Siegel at the Raleigh show in May. The female is about 3.5 feet and the male is about 4.5 feet. I've been having problems getting them to feed consistently.

The female seems to prefer live small rats, but has taken F/T which I prefer. The male seems to be terrified of live rats and has never eaten one. The only time he has eaten is when I leave a P/K or F/T medium rat in his tank, but then it sometimes takes him a couple days to decide to eat it.

I've been trying to feed them every 7-10 days, especially the female, because I want her to grow since the male is larger. Both snakes are healthy and quite tolerant to being handled, though I don't handle them much as I don't want to stress them out.

Am I trying to feed them too often? Does anyone have any suggestions for alternate prey animals? Should I offer them a more secluded environment by hanging a curtain or something around their tanks? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

-Bryan

Replies (12)

poosphere Aug 07, 2003 10:46 AM

If they are wild caught, get them to a vet pronto and have them checked out. I got a boa from the same source last year and it appeared healthy yet died within two weeks. I never inquired as to whether it was wc or not, I just assumed it was captive born and raised. My mistake, I should have had it checked out and treated immediately.

MonkeyLove Aug 07, 2003 02:24 PM

I'll probably have them checked out by my vet...as soon as I pay my outstanding balance.

Anyway, I think they are healthy. I've had them since the Raleigh show in May...almost 3 months...they're just being picky eaters.

I didn't mean to imply anything by mentioning the source of the animals. These are not the first snakes I've bought from Ben, and I have no complaints with him. I knew the Boas were WC when I bought them.

I should really get them to the vet, though. I've been meaning to do it. I routinely take all new purchases in for an exam, but money's been tight lately. Thanks for the advice.

-Bryan

H+E Stoeckl Aug 07, 2003 05:50 PM

A completely healthy wildcaught surinam boa is like Santa Claus: Not existing (unless it has had the full treatment program before).

You can expect internal parasites and pathogenic germs in the stomache/intestine.

A feeding schedule like the one that you intend to apply on the animal will not work. Sooner or later the animal will start to regurgitate and the condition will deteriorate rapidly.

I would feed her initially only in a three week interval. Also, a stole sample has to be examined for parasites AND pathogenic germs.

Also, it is most important to weigh the animal and check out the weight at least monthly. If she don't gains weight or even loses weight, you know that something is wrong.

Of course you need not retain the 3 week feeding schedule. You can gradually shorten the interval, but be very careful.

My advice is not out of the blue. I keep and have kept a lot of wildcaught surinams. To carry on with this feeding schedule is the best way to get rid of her.
Boa constrictor

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Beware of Commies and Mutts!

poosphere Aug 07, 2003 07:00 PM

For once, LOL! Actually, you may be suprised to know that while I disagree with your sometimes condescending and hostile approach toward some people here, I do agree with alot of your ideals when it comes to boas.

H+E Stoeckl Aug 08, 2003 12:30 PM

... that we agree in boas and agree to disagree in politics.

All the best
Boa constrictor

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Beware of Commies and Mutts!

boids Aug 07, 2003 11:07 AM

Since its wild caught i would have a vet check it out. I would also call Ben and check to see what and how often he's been feeding it. I myself have a wild caught guyana i purchased from someone else that has been a nightmare for the past year. She has been touch and go on feedings and when i found and started useing some live baby chicks she kicked in gear. She's about 7 foot so i start her on a live one and after she takes i kill 1 other chick and when she eats it i offer her the dead one if she takes it i use the 3rd chick to scent a couple rats (small) and when she eats them i give her the third chick to finish off. If she doesn't eat the second chick dead i give her the second live one and then the dead one after i scented a couple rats with it. This is the only way i have been able to get her to eat and it sounds like alot of prey items but there not that big. Also try it in the evening hours when its dark outside and dark in the snakes cage I have found that to be a plus too. And make sure theres not any traffic (human or other animals in front of the cage). Hope this helps Paul
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SNAKE!!!!HIT THE BRAKES!!!!!!! SCREEEEEECH , What is it , ohh its just a stick sorry honey

MonkeyLove Aug 07, 2003 02:33 PM

Thank you for the suggestion Paul.

I've found a local place to get some live chicks. I think the guy said they were 5-7 days old. Will these be an appropriate size for my snakes?

Like I said before, when they do eat, the female eats small rats and the male eats medium rats. I don't know how that compares to a 5-7 day old chick. Do you?

Thanks again for your help.

-Bryan

boids Aug 07, 2003 09:04 PM

5 to 7 day old chicks should be fine. Just feel the bodys and make sure there not to thick. If there eating rats on occasion try moveing the cage to a solitar part of the house where they won't see ant traffic. Also i found on wc specimens if i give them a waterbowl big enough to soak in they will soak for hours due to dehydration. Then they eat , also what are the temps and humidity like in the cages. Paul
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SNAKE!!!!HIT THE BRAKES!!!!!!! SCREEEEEECH , What is it , ohh its just a stick sorry honey

boids Aug 07, 2003 11:07 AM

Since its wild caught i would have a vet check it out. I would also call Ben and check to see what and how often he's been feeding it. I myself have a wild caught guyana i purchased from someone else that has been a nightmare for the past year. She has been touch and go on feedings and when i found and started useing some live baby chicks she kicked in gear. She's about 7 foot so i start her on a live one and after she takes i kill 1 other chick and when she eats it i offer her the dead one if she takes it i use the 3rd chick to scent a couple rats (small) and when she eats them i give her the third chick to finish off. If she doesn't eat the second chick dead i give her the second live one and then the dead one after i scented a couple rats with it. This is the only way i have been able to get her to eat and it sounds like alot of prey items but there not that big. Also try it in the evening hours when its dark outside and dark in the snakes cage I have found that to be a plus too. And make sure theres not any traffic (human or other animals in front of the cage). Hope this helps Paul
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SNAKE!!!!HIT THE BRAKES!!!!!!! SCREEEEEECH , What is it , ohh its just a stick sorry honey

AbsoluteApril Aug 07, 2003 03:04 PM

as stated, fecals are a good idea..
assuming the snakes are otherwise healthy..
some things that really helped the guyana I used to have
start feeding on his own:
cover the tanks with a sheet for the first few months, privacy!!
feed only at night and with the lights out, you can use
a blue or red bulb so you can see but turn that out as soon as
the snake takes the prey.
If the snakes will eat f/t left in the cage, that is the
best option, no stress to the snake.
Feed only every 10-14 days, every 7 days could be too much,
BCC have delicate stomachs.
Try chicks if you have to, but if they are already eating
rats, stick with the rats... sometimes they prefer chicks so
much they will not eat other prey.
limit handling to only when you have to clean the cage at
least for the first few months, (take pics on cleaning day, etc)
the snakes need time and quite to settle in and start feeding
regularly and normally before they should be handled often.
IMO
Good luck

MonkeyLove Aug 07, 2003 03:40 PM

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to hang a sheet from the ceiling to give the tanks some privacy. Also, I've been leaving the red heat lamps on at night, which is probably not necessary since the room temp is 77 degrees. I'll start turning them off at night.

As for the chicks - why is it a bad thing to feed them chicks instead of rats? I can buy live chicks for $1/chick instead of $3-$4/frozen rat. Are the rats more nutritious? Thanks.

-Bryan

boids Aug 07, 2003 09:21 PM

Some people avoid chics for a couple reasons but i use them as a last resort. One reason is availability , some places won't have chicks year round (example here in Arizona its too hot here in the summer) other reasons in other areas. Second it gives there feces a different odor whitch some people really don't like i don't find it to bad. Third reason if fed too many chicks or chickens the snake can become obese. Hope this helps if i forgot anything please help out people , Paul
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SNAKE!!!!HIT THE BRAKES!!!!!!! SCREEEEEECH , What is it , ohh its just a stick sorry honey

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